The State of Unemployment and Economic Growth in Ulaanbaatar (and why I’m seriously considering a yak)
okay, so, like, I’m staring at this rain. not the gentle, ‘oh, a little drizzle’ rain. this is the ‘you’re questioning all your life choices’ rain. it’s that grey-brown sludge that coats everything in Ulaanbaatar and makes you want to curl up with a bowl of khuushuur and a questionable amount of vodka. seriously, it’s like someone dumped a bucket of mud on the city.
I’m a touring session drummer - yeah, I know, sounds pretentious, but it’s my life right now - and I’ve been bouncing around this place for the last six weeks. mostly playing in dive bars that smell vaguely of fermented dairy and regret. and let me tell you, the job market here? it’s… interesting. it’s not exactly booming. I’ve been hitting up Reddit - r/Ulaanbaatar is surprisingly active, mostly complaining about the pollution and the price of airag - and the consensus is pretty bleak. a lot of people are stuck in the mining sector, which is, you know, volatile. like, really volatile. I heard a rumor (thanks, Reddit!) that a whole district got shut down last month because of some… issues. don’t ask. just trust me, it’s not good.
But, and this is a big but, there’s a weird undercurrent of… resilience? I saw a guy selling hand-carved yaks outside the Gandan Monastery yesterday. Seriously. Yaks. And they were actually pretty good. Like, genuinely cool. There’s a lot of small businesses popping up - artisan crafts, cafes serving some surprisingly decent coffee (seriously, the coffee scene is underrated here, despite the general chaos), and tiny studios for artists. It’s like, pockets of creativity fighting against the grey.
Let’s talk numbers, because I’m obsessed with numbers. According to Numbeo, the cost of living in Ulaanbaatar is roughly 30-40% lower than in Western Europe. That’s the drunk advice I got from a guy at a karaoke bar last night. He was very enthusiastic about his numbers. Here’s a quick breakdown:
| Category | Estimated Monthly Cost (USD) |
|---|---|
| Rent (1-bedroom) | $150 - $300 |
| Groceries | $100 - $200 |
| Transportation | $30 - $60 |
| Utilities | $50 - $100 |
| Entertainment | $100 - $200 |
(Disclaimer: These are estimates. My experience has been… variable.)
And the growth? Well, GDP growth has been hovering around 3-4% recently, which is decent, but it’s mostly driven by mining and construction. It’s not exactly a diversified economy. I’m talking to a friend who’s a freelance photographer - she’s making a decent living shooting weddings and portraits, but it’s a hustle. She said, “It’s a slow burn, man. Like, you’re building something brick by brick, and sometimes you just want to throw the whole thing down and start again.”
“It’s a slow burn, man. You’re building something brick by brick, and sometimes you just want to throw the whole thing down and start again.” - Local Photographer, Baatar.
I spent a weekend in Darkhan, about a two-hour drive south. It’s… different. More traditional, more rural. It’s a stark contrast to the frenetic energy of Ulaanbaatar. You can almost feel the shift in pace. It’s like, the city is trying to modernize, but it’s still wrestling with its past.
Seriously, if you’re considering moving here, do your research. The air quality is a major issue - it’s consistently in the red zone. And the traffic is… an experience. It’s like a chaotic ballet of cars, motorcycles, and livestock. I heard from a local that the government is trying to implement stricter regulations, but… well, you know how that goes.
I’m thinking about picking up some Mongolian throat singing lessons. Or maybe learning to herd yaks. Honestly, at this point, I’m open to anything that will distract me from the existential dread of being a touring drummer in a city that smells faintly of fermented dairy.
Here’s a helpful resource: TripAdvisor - Ulaanbaatar and Yelp - Ulaanbaatar and for the truly brave, r/Ulaanbaatar on Reddit.
Okay, I’m going to go find another khuushuur and contemplate the meaning of life. And maybe invest in a really good raincoat. Seriously, this rain is relentless.
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