Tokyo Drift & Damp Socks: A Week in Shinjuku
okay, so tokyo. it’s…a lot. i landed on the 21st of november, 2020 (yeah, i’m super behind on blogging, sue me) and the code 1392611314 kept popping into my head for some reason. maybe it was the flight number, maybe i’m losing it. probably the latter. i’m a freelance photographer, and honestly, i came here chasing the neon. and the ramen. mostly the ramen.
shinjuku is…intense. like, permanently turned up to eleven. i’m staying in a tiny capsule hotel near the station - seriously, it’s like sleeping in a futuristic coffin, but surprisingly comfy. the air is thick with the smell of exhaust fumes, fried food, and something vaguely floral that i can’t quite place. i just checked and it’s…a constant drizzle, which makes everything gleam in a really dramatic way. hope you brought waterproof everything.
weather-wise, it’s been hovering around 8.25 celsius, but feels like 6.35. the humidity is insane - 87 percent. my hair has officially declared independence. the pressure is a solid 1020, which, honestly, feels about right for the weight of this city. i’ve been wandering around with my camera, trying to capture the chaos. it’s hard. it’s really hard. everything moves so fast.
Camera: Sony a7iii (obviously)
*Lens: 35mm f/1.4 (my go-to for street stuff)
*Rain Cover: ESSENTIAL. seriously.
*Portable Charger: You’ll be using your phone constantly.
*Pocket Wifi: Don’t even try without it. TripAdvisor is your friend.
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someone told me that the Robot Restaurant is a total tourist trap, but you have to go just to say you’ve been. it’s like a fever dream set to techno.
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i spent yesterday getting lost in the golden gai, a network of tiny, ramshackle bars. each one seats like, four people. it’s amazing. i overheard a guy (who was very* drunk) telling another guy that the best yakitori in shinjuku is at a place called “Torishiki,” but you need a reservation months in advance. Yelp has a bunch of reviews, but take them with a grain of salt.
my neighbors are…interesting. mostly salarymen rushing to work, and a surprising number of people dressed in full cosplay. if you get bored, yokohama and hakone are just a short train ride away. i’ve been trying to learn some basic japanese, but it’s proving difficult. “arigato” and “konnichiwa” only get you so far. i’ve been relying heavily on google translate and pointing.
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a local warned me about the crowds at the shibuya crossing. apparently, it’s even more insane during rush hour. she said to just embrace the chaos and try not to get trampled.
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i also heard that the shinjuku gyoen national garden is a good place to escape the madness, but i haven’t made it there yet. it’s on the list. i’m also planning to check out the samurai museum. Japan Guide has a good overview of the area. honestly, i’m just taking it one day at a time. this city is exhausting, but in a good way. it’s like a constant assault on the senses, and i’m kind of loving it. i’m going to go find some more ramen now. wish me luck. and send coffee. Time Out Tokyo has some good recommendations for food.