Long Read

tokyo's concrete jungle fought the moss (and the moss is totally winning)

@Julian Moss2/7/2026blog
tokyo's concrete jungle fought the moss (and the moss is totally winning)

woke up tokyo’s grumpy february skies punching me in the face with -1.3°C that somehow feels like -7.9°C because humidity here doesn’t quit. someone needs to tell japan’s winter it’s trying too hard. grabbed three layers and my loupe because concrete has secrets when you’re a plant nerd lost between skyscrapers and *shitamachi alleys.

"heard from a salaryman chain-smoking outside Shinjuku Gyoen that the camellias near the teahouse bloom early if you whisper haikus at them"

no clue if that’s true but i tried anyway. shoutout to Shinjuku Gyoen’s grumpy gardeners who side-eye anyone stepping off paths. the park’s yaezakura cherry cultivars are still hibernating, but the moss? oh buddy. moss blankets every stone wall like nature’s passive-aggressive takeover.

vibrant green moss covering ancient stone steps in a japanese garden


my fingers froze trying to photograph fern spores in
Yanaka Cemetery (weird flex but okay) until this obaa-san selling roasted sweet potatoes near Nezu Shrine told me "koko no aki wa ii kedo, samui wa yo" basically meaning "autumn here rules but winter sux"-accurate. if you’re insane enough to botanize in february, hit Yanaka Ginza for street snacks after. their taiyaki are 90% scalding custard, 10% regret.


:the local kombini clerk warned me about gotokuji temple’s "lucky cat" shrine: "so many maneki-neko you’ll dream in ceramic." they weren’t wrong. also, if temples aren’t your thing: kyoto’s a bullet train nap away, nagoya’s close enough for miskate-induced day trips.

snow dusting bamboo forest with torii gate in winter


psa: everyone hypes
teamLab Planets but a drunk guy at Golden Gai slurred "go to kiyosumi garden when it sleets. the stone hopping gets awkwaaard"* which honestly sold me more. final verdict? tokyo’s parks in winter are like that one introverted friend-quietly spectacular if you stop yelling.

p.s. someone tell this overpriced matcha place in meguro that ¥1500 for whipped foam is criminal.


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About the author: Julian Moss

Unapologetically enthusiastic about niche topics.

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