toluca: it’s… complicated
okay, so i just got back from toluca de lerdo. and honestly? it’s a lot. like, a lot of things happening all at once. i’m still trying to process it, and i just checked and it’s...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s the highest capital in north america, which is wild, right? seriously, 2600-2680 meters above sea level. makes you feel a little breathless just thinking about it.
seriously, the geography is intense. it’s in the toluca valley, which is… well, it’s a valley. lots of green, apparently. they have 7.3 km² of water bodies, which is a lot, i guess? someone told me that the flora is diverse, but i mostly just saw buildings. lots and lots of buildings.
historically, it’s been a big deal. they got municipal status back in 1812, and then there was that whole battle of tenango hill thing - over 100 rebels executed in the plaza. now it’s called plaza de los mártires. creepy, but also… important, i suppose. it’s gone through a massive industrial shift, starting in the 40s and 80s. now it’s a hub for automotive, textiles, food, beverages, electronics - the whole shebang. it’s a weird mix of old and new, which is kind of what i like.
and the weather? forget about it. temperate, they say. averaging 14°C (57°F). pleasant and sunny year-round, but winter nights are chilly. summers bring afternoon rains that can flood roads. and snow occasionally caps the nearby peaks. i packed layers, and i’m still sweating.
let’s talk about things to do. cosmovitral is insane - a botanical garden with giant stained-glass windows. it’s like walking through a kaleidoscope. los portales is cool too, with the cathedral and the shopping district. it’s always buzzing with fairs and music. and the plaza de los mártires is just… a plaza. with a palace and a monument. it’s all very… official. they have museums, markets, and you can hike nevado de toluca if you’re feeling adventurous.
food-wise, chorizo is a must. apparently, La Vaquita Negra near the cathedral has the best tortas. i tried it. it was… okay. markets are full of traditional mexican fare. it’s a real sensory overload.
and the people? well, there are 910,608 of them (according to the 2020 census). they’re called toluqueños, which is a mouthful. they seem to like a “authentic mexican lifestyle,” which i’m assuming means they don’t spend all their time on instagram. it’s a commuter-oriented city, with good infrastructure and public transport. someone told me that the "el insurgente" train is coming soon and will connect them to mexico city at 160 km/h. if you get bored, mexico city, puebla, san miguel de allende, and those mountain towns are just a short drive away.
just a few things to be aware of: the weather, the noise (church bells at 6 a.m. - seriously!), and the traffic. but honestly, the pros outweigh the cons. affordable rents, healthcare, and a really unique vibe. it’s not a sleepy town, that’s for sure. it’s… bustling. it’s a complicated place, toluca. it’s definitely worth a visit, though. just be prepared for a lot.
area codes: 722/729; demonym: toluqueño(a). that’s all i’ve got for now. i need coffee.
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