Long Read

Top Industries Driving the Economy of São Luís, or Why You Might End Up Shooting a Crying Goat Here

@Freya Holm2/12/2026blog

so i’ve been hiding in my apartment in centro, trying to edit photos from the past week, and honestly? the city’s economy feels like a mess of contradictions. one minute you’re shooting the colonial architecture that makes you feel like you’re in a Drunken Death Cusco market, and the next you’re trying to figure out why a guy in a straw hat keeps asking if you want to ‘invest in banana plantations.’ talking about industries here isn’t about this grand masterplan stuff-it’s more like a chaotic photo collage where each frame is snapped in a different part of the city.

let’s start with the obvious: tourism. yeah, São Luís is a UNESCO site, and that translates to jobs for tour guides, ticket sellers, and people who color-correct your photos of samba dancers who’ve probably never seen snow. according to that Yelp review i skimmed (https://www.yelp.com/biz/sao-luis-tourism-office-don’t trust it, it’s written in crayon by a tourist who forgot to charge their phone), there are 12,000+ annual visitors, but most of them only stay for the dunes and the museum’s haunted hall. side note: if you’re a freelance photographer, you can book a shoot at the Forte do Sao Pedrito, but the guard keeps trying to sell you a membership. why? because it’s run by a conglomerate that also owns the local liquor store. nooo.

but here’s where it gets wild: the city’s job market isn’t just about tourists. the cost of living is a mess. i checked an offshore Reddit (https://www.reddit.com/r/brasil/brazil)-reddit, why do you hate me?-and people are bragging about renting studios for $200/month in the suburbs, but if you want to be near the action, you’re looking at $800+. most freelancers here are either starving artists or software devs trying to outsmart the heat. i once met a guy working in data entry for a telecom company-sure, it’s stable, but he’s got a side hustle selling ‘mystery boxes’ on Mercado Livre that might or might not contain expired snacks. real talk: the economy here is like a DSLR with three lenses-only one works well, and you’re stuck carrying the other two everywhere.

then there’s the food industry. don’t get me wrong, São Luís is a food city. the fish market near the lagoa is this chaotic place where vendors shout about catfish and octopus, and a local told me, ‘if you want to make real money, find a spot near the ceviche stall at 7 am.’ i didn’t. i took photos of a guy deep-frying beers. (it was great, but not a career move.) but here’s the kicker-the food scene is tied to tourism, yeah, but also to delivery apps. i’ve seen ghostly figures from Uber Eats in the middle of the night, and honestly, it’s a safety net for a lot of people. one of my neighbors said to watch out for scams near the river where delivery drivers ‘lose their way’ and ask for cash. classic.


i took two shots today that sum up the vibe. one was a worker at the docks carrying baskets of mangosteen. the other was a delivery driver with a helmet full of tacos, looking like a human clown at 3 am. these moments aren’t about grand narratives-but they’re the economy, folks. real, messy, and slightly dangerous. speaking of danger, the heat’s been brutal.Editors note: it’s like holding your camera to a literal forge. yesterday, I photographed a street artist near the Mercado Público, and by the time I finished, my hands were sweating more than the can of soda he was selling. the artist said he works best in monsoon season because it ‘mutes the chaos.’ i’m not sure if that’s artistic advice or a cry for help.


...yeah, that TripAdvisor rant about the bus system is gold. the user wrote: ‘if the bus breaks down, you’ll learn why São Luís is the safest city in Brazil.’ which is either a lie or a cry for help. i tried taking a bus last week and ended up in a church instead. the driver said, ‘pray it’s the right one.’ no thanks.

let’s talk about the weather again. it’s the type of climate where even your shadow sweats. last week, a local on Instagram (sounds familiar?) advised against visiting the lagoon at midday because the water’s so hot it’ll scald your camera batteries. i didn’t believe them until I tried it. 30-degree water. my memory card melted. that’s data-driven storytelling, right?


...if you’re into food, the Beco do Povo is a must. but don’t take my word for it. a drunken friend of mine swear it’s haunted by a chef from the 1920s who still criticizes food prices. okay, maybe that’s a strong take. but the place is chaotic, loud, and jumping with people who either run food trucks or hate everyone. two perspectives, one city.

the bottom line? São Luís’ economy is like a Polaroid photo-it doesn’t make sense until you develop it. you’ve got tourism, food, and a weird mix of old money clinging to historic sites while new money pops up in Tel rega areas. and yes, there’s a growing tech scene, but it’s more of a ‘side hustle’ vibe than a movement. if you’re here freelance photographing or starving or anything in between, you’re part of that economy. even if it’s just selling your last bottle of water on the corner.

P.S. don’t forget the bathrooms. the city’s drainage system is tied to the industries in a way that’s... uncanny. if you’re out past 9 pm, you might pass a roadside stall selling portable toilets for $5. bring cash.

Oh, and the rain? It’s not just rain. It’s a metaphor. one day, a guy near the church informed me, ‘it’s like the city is crying because our industries are drowning in debt.’ i didn’t ask him if he had data. he was too busy crying himself, probably.


reddit’s take on São Luís is a dumpster fire of advice. one user wrote: ‘the only industry here is the ‘how to survive’ industry.’ i’m not sure if it’s a meme or a warning. either way, it’s spot on.

...i’m done. my camera’s dead. my mind’s probably fried. but next time you want to talk about São Luís, think about the guy selling mangosteens at 6 am or the delivery driver with taco helmets. that’s the economy here. messy, human, and photogenic-just like a good photo op."


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About the author: Freya Holm

Loves data, hates clutter.

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