Tver's Frozen Sigh: A Photographer's (Slightly Frostbitten) Musings

okay, so tver. i didn't choose tver, exactly. it was a last-minute detour. the van's radiator decided it needed a vacation just outside of *moscow, and tver was the closest place with a mechanic who didn't look like he'd steal my camera gear. honestly? i'm kinda glad it happened.

it's…intense here. like, visually. all these old churches and crumbling buildings, but everything's coated in this layer of ice. i just checked and it's…actively trying to freeze your eyeballs, apparently. -13.57 celsius, they say. feels like -19.05. which, let's be real, is just a fancy way of saying "brutal". the air itself feels solid.

my fingers are constantly numb, even with gloves. i've been trying to capture the light on the volga river, but it's a battle against the elements. and my battery life. seriously, cold kills batteries. i've learned that the hard way. i'm relying heavily on a power bank, which is now my most prized possession.

people here…they're a different breed. stoic. bundled up to their eyeballs. i tried asking for directions to a decent coffee shop (priorities, people) and got a look that could curdle milk. eventually, someone pointed me towards a place called "Kofe s Soboy" - apparently, it's the only one that doesn't serve instant. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Coffee+Shops&find_loc=Tver%2C+Russia - it's…functional. let's leave it at that.

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"don't bother with the museum. it's mostly just portraits of stern-looking men with beards. and it's freezing inside." - overheard from two babushkas arguing over the price of potatoes at the market.


that's pretty much the vibe here. stern men, freezing temperatures, and a surprising amount of potatoes. i've been wandering around the old town, trying to find interesting angles. the architecture is amazing, but it's hard to appreciate when you're shivering uncontrollably. i heard that the travel palace is worth a look, but honestly, i'm not sure i have the energy to brave the crowds. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g229938-Activities-Tver_Tver_Oblast_Western_Russia.html

my neighbors seem to mostly consist of stray cats and people who are very serious about their winter coats. if you get bored, saint petersburg and moscow are just a short train ride away, but honestly, i'm not sure i'd recommend it unless you're a fan of frostbite.

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"the mechanic? yeah, he's good. but he'll charge you double if he thinks you're a tourist." - a very helpful (and slightly drunk) man i met at a bar.


apparently, the local board is full of complaints about the roads being perpetually icy. https://tver.ru/ - good to know. i'm starting to think my van's breakdown was a blessing in disguise. it forced me to slow down and actually look at this place. it's not glamorous, it's not warm, but it's…real. and sometimes, that's enough. i'm thinking of sticking around for another day, just to see if i can capture that perfect shot. or at least, not drop my camera* in the snow. https://www.lonelyplanet.com/russia/tver