utrecht: trying to be the center of the netherlands (and failing because of the bikes)

i just checked and it's 7.2°c there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it's been drizzling for three days straight and the humidity is 86%, so you're basically walking in a sauna outside. utrecht is the capital of the smallest province in the netherlands, and they claim it's the geographic center of the country. which sounds grand until you realize the place is mostly canals and old buildings that have been converted into shops and cafés.

the dom tower is massive, 112 meters tall, and it's the tallest church tower in the netherlands. i climbed it and spent half the time wondering if i'd make it to the top without getting lost in the spiral staircase. the tower is part of the dom church, which is from the 14th century, and the whole complex looks like a pile of bricks that have been sitting there for centuries. the view from the top is supposed to be panoramic but i only saw clouds and other towers. the tower has a public clock from the 16th century and i spent 10 euros just to see the mechanism. it's old and noisy, but impressive. the tower was built in 1321 and it took 60 years to finish, which explains why it's so crooked.

then there's the canal system. oude gracht is the main one, with two levels of streets - the street above where the people are and the warehouses below that are now basement cafés. it's chaotic: bikes whizzing by, tourists getting stuck on the bridges, and the whole place smells like wet stone and coffee. i spent an afternoon just walking around these canals and trying to find a good waterside spot to eat. i had a herring in one of those cafés and it was okay, but nothing compared to what you can find in amsterdam. the cafés have tables outside, but the weather is terrible so i ate inside and the view was still good. the canals were originally dug to control the rhine river's old bed, and now they're part of the inner harbor system. the city has over 160 bridges, which is why i kept getting lost.

utrecht university is everywhere. they have one of the largest student populations in the netherlands, so you'll find students in every corner, cheap pizza joints, and late-night study halls. the university was founded in 1636, which is old, but the buildings are modern and the whole vibe is youth energy. i went to a student bar and the music was loud, the tables were sticky, and the bartender knew everything about the city. there's also a big library with a green dome that looks like a spaceship. the student area is called the "singelgebied" and it's packed with bookshops and student housing. the university has a reputation for being strict about bicycles, so if you don't have a bike lock, they'll fine you.

the city is part of the randstad, which is the urban ring in the western netherlands. if you get bored, amsterdam, rotterdam, or amersfoort are just a short drive away. amsterdam is northwest, rotterdam and the hague are west, and amersfoort is east. i didn't go to amersfoort but heard it's medieval and less touristy. rotterdam has cool architecture like the cube houses, and amsterdam is amsterdam. the randstad is densely populated, so driving is a nightmare. you'll spend more time in traffic than exploring. but the train is easy because utrecht is a hub. the train station is the busiest in the country, and it's always under renovation, which means the information boards are broken and the staff are stressed.

someone told me that lonely planet called utrecht an unsung gem in 2012. which i guess means it wasn't as crowded then? but now the whole thing is packed with students and commuters. the city ranks high for cultural events, second only to amsterdam, and they have the netherlands film festival. i went to a film festival screening and it was packed, so i'm not sure about the "unsung" part anymore. the city is also home to the dutch railways headquarters and prorail, which means the train system is efficient but always under construction. the station has a shopping mall inside, which is weird because you expect a train station to be more functional.

the flat terrain is typical of the netherlands. most of the land is below sea level, so they have dikes and water management. utrecht has a lot of rivers and canals, and the landscape is a mix of reclaimed land and natural waterways. the north sea's influence means the climate is temperate maritime: mild winters, cool summers, and frequent rain. the flood protections are solid, but the rain is relentless. i saw a dike system near the city that looked ancient and modern at the same time. the city is built on a floodplain, so you'll find the ground is soft and the buildings are sometimes leaning.

the population is 376,435 as of january 2025, making it the fourth largest city in the netherlands. it's super bike-friendly, with extensive cycling paths. if you don't bike, you'll be stuck. the city is trying to be the original dutch city style pioneer, with wharfs dating back to 1306. i've seen photos of the wharfs and they look like a layer cake of streets. the wharfs are unique to utrecht and they created a whole waterfront culture. the dom tower is part of that history, but the wharfs are the real draw because they're literally built on top of each other.

housing is competitive because of the students. i stayed in a hostel and the beds were cramped, but it was affordable. english is widely spoken, which is good, but learning basic dutch helps with integration. petty theft happens in tourist areas, so keep an eye on your stuff. the city is also known for having a lot of cyclists, so if you're not used to it, you'll get hit by a bike at least once. the bike paths are painted red and green, and they're everywhere, even in the center of the city.

overall, utrecht is a mix of old and new, student energy and historical weight, and it's trying to find its place in the netherlands. it's not amsterdam, so it's less chaotic in terms of crowds? no, actually it's just as chaotic because of the bikes and the canals. but the dom tower is impressive and the wharfs are unique. i've been to amsterdam twice and utrecht feels more like a weekday version of it - you get the same sights but without the party crowds. the city has a lot of history, but it's also very functional: you can bike from one end to the other in 20 minutes if you're in good shape.

the map below shows where i stayed and the main attractions.


here are some photos:

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