Weihai, China: Freezing My Toes Off and Finding Unexpected Magic
okay, so. weihai. i didn’t really know what to expect, honestly. i saw a number - 1875107 - and it just…stuck in my head. felt like a good place to wander. and wander i did. i’m a botanist, you see, and the promise of coastal flora, even in winter, was too tempting. plus, the numbers felt like a secret code, a challenge.
let’s just say, the weather is…enthusiastic. i just checked and it’s a bone-chilling -2.51 degrees Celsius right now, with a ‘feels like’ of -4.93. pressure’s at 1017, and the humidity is clinging to everything like a damp blanket. it’s the kind of cold that seeps into your bones and makes you question all your life choices. i’m bundled up like a yeti, let me tell you.
but! it’s also…beautiful. the coastline is rugged, all grey rocks and churning sea. the air smells like salt and something vaguely…piney? i’m trying to identify it, but my fingers are too numb to properly examine anything. i did manage to spot some hardy little grasses clinging to the cliffs - definitely worth a closer look when i thaw out.
and the people! i’m staying in a tiny guesthouse near *Huiquan Bay, run by a woman named Mei. she doesn’t speak much English, and my Mandarin is…well, let’s just say it’s a work in progress. but we communicate through smiles and gestures and copious amounts of tea. she keeps offering me these little steamed buns filled with something savory - i think it’s pork? - and they’re surprisingly delicious.
I overheard some gossip at a local noodle shop (seriously, the best noodles I’ve ever had - check out their Yelp page: https://www.yelp.com/). Apparently, the Shanhaiguan Great Wall section nearby is undergoing some renovations. Someone said it’s to make it more “tourist-friendly,” which, honestly, sounds terrifying. I prefer the crumbling, slightly spooky vibe.
“Don’t go near the old lighthouse after dark,” a very serious-looking man warned me, slurping his noodles. “They say it’s haunted by a sailor who lost his ship.”
haunted? probably just the wind whistling through the cracks, but it added a certain…atmosphere.
I spent a good chunk of the afternoon wandering around Weihai Park, which was surprisingly lively despite the weather. There were families bundled up in thick coats, flying kites and laughing. A group of older men were playing a game that looked vaguely like chess, but with stones. I tried to ask what it was, but my Mandarin failed me again.
if you get bored, Rongcheng and Shandong are just a short drive away. I’m thinking of taking a day trip to check out the Cherry Blossom Festival grounds - even if the blossoms aren’t blooming yet, the scenery should be nice.
pro-tip: bring lots of layers. Seriously. And hand warmers. And maybe a small heater.
gear list:
Thermal underwear (multiple sets)
Wool socks (thick ones)
Waterproof boots
Hat, scarf, gloves (the really warm kind)
Camera (for documenting the hardy flora)
A good book (for those long, cold evenings)
A phrasebook (my Mandarin needs serious help)
A thermos of hot tea (essential for survival)
I also stumbled across a really interesting little antique shop near the Weihai Museum. They had some incredible old botanical illustrations - I almost bought them all! You can find similar shops listed on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/.
I heard that the seafood here is incredible, but I haven’t been brave enough to try it yet. Apparently, the local crab* is a must-try, but someone warned me about the spiky shells. I’ll work up to it.
I’m also trying to find some information about the local plant life. I’ve been checking out the Weihai Municipal Government website: http://www.weihai.gov.cn/ (mostly pictures, but hey, it’s something).
and finally, a random thought: the street art scene here is…minimal. I saw one mural of a giant fish, but that’s it. Maybe I’ll have to bring my own spray paint. (just kidding…mostly.)
okay, i’m going to go curl up with a cup of tea and try to defrost my toes. wish me luck.
check out this forum for more local tips: https://www.chinatravelforum.com/