wonsan froze my butt off: a broke student's frozen misadventure

okay, so i woke up in wonsan with a numbing cold and a memory of a number-1866453-scratched into my arm from last night's soju debacle. the hostel guy, who i think was called mr. kim but might have been anyone, handed me a key and said "room 1866453" but the door said 18. maybe it's a code for the wifi, but the password was "password" so who knows. this city runs on confusion and cheap instant noodles.

i just checked the weather app, and it's reporting -0.32°c, but feels like -2.14°c with 68% humidity. that's not just cold; that's "why did i leave my dorm" cold. the pressure is 1020 mb, which means the sky is heavy with more snow or just general misery. as a budget student, i didn't pack for this. i have a hoodie from a 2015 campus event and a sense of regret.

wonsan itself? it's a port city on the east coast of north korea, all concrete blocks and fishing boats that creak like old bones. the sea is gray, and the wind comes off it with a purpose, making that 68% humidity feel like knife edges. i'm hiding in a cafe that charges 5000 won for a tea, which is half my daily budget. i overheard two german tourists talking about how "quaint" it is, and i wanted to scream that quaint doesn't pay for your hypothermia treatment.

if you get bored of wonsan's particular brand of grim, the next city is hamhung, a couple hours east if the trains are running. i heard from a local who sells bootleg dvds that the train to hamhung leaves when the conductor feels like it, so bring a book or a strong will to live. also, pyongyang is a thing, but that's for tourists with actual money, not students like me who count every won. if you're feeling brave, the dmz is rumored to be a short drive south, but that's probably a joke that lands you in jail.

someone told me that the best kimchi is made by an ajumma near the pier, but i heard from a drunk brit that she sells expired cans to foreigners. i tried to find her, but all i found was a line of people waiting for government soup. on this tripadvisor thread, people rave about the "authentic experience," but i think they're paid to say that. yelp has a page for tour companies that might hook you up, but again, budget. lonely planet's forum is full of warnings about winter, like duh. i also found a local board where someone posted about cheap juk, which saved my life yesterday.

i keep seeing the number 1408781295 pop up-on a bus ticket, a hotel bill, a text from my mom asking if i'm alive. i think it's a glitch in the matrix or a government tracking code. last night, a guy in a bar whispered "1408781295" and slid me a extra soju shot, so maybe it's a lucky number? or a curse? in north korea, it's probably both.

the cold is a character here. it has a name, and it's -0.32 degrees, but it feels like -2.14 because of that 68% humidity that makes your breath hang in the air like a bad decision. i sleep with my clothes on, and my socks are damp by morning. pressure at 1020 mb means no relief; the sky is a lead blanket. i've never missed my campus heating system more.

neighbors: wonsan is close to the sea, but the water is sludge. i heard through the grapevine that if you take a boat at night, you might reach south korea, but that's suicide and probably illegal. so, i'm stuck. the city of changjin is mentioned in old war stories, but it's just a name now. if you get bored, the east sea is right there, but swimming is not recommended unless you enjoy frostbite.

overheard at the hostel kitchen: "the mountain resort is open for 1408781295 won per night," which is clearly a joke or a mistake. someone else said "room 1866453 has a view," but i never found that room. maybe it's a code for the secret bar where they serve real coffee. i followed a tip on that local board and found a place that does juk for 2000 won, but the bowl was half-size. still, it's warm.

i should show you where i am. here's the map:

and photos from unsplash that scream wonsan (or at least cold asia):

so, that's wonsan. i'm still here, surviving on student loans and sheer stupidity. if you come, pack thermals, learn to say "no" to overcharging, and don't trust anyone who says 1866453 or 1408781295. or do, and tell me what happens. i need the company. also, check out this blog for more budget tips, though it might be outdated. and this yelp review for tour scams. just saying.

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