10 Things You Must Know Before Moving to Lubumbashi (From a Marathon Runner Who Tried to Train There)
so i moved to lubumbashi with a suitcase full of running shorts and stupid optimism. i read online that the city sits on a plateau, perfect for endurance training, and that the copper mines give the air a metallic tang that supposedly makes you faster. (spoiler: it doesn't.) lubumbashi is the second biggest city in the congo, a sprawling mess of markets, minibuses, and dust that never seems to settle. it's the kind of place where you either learn to thrive or spend all your money on bottled water and mosquito coils. i'm still figuring out which one i am.
anyway, here are 10 things you must know before moving to lubumbashi, from someone who's logged more miles here than most tourists.
1. altitude is a sneaky training partner. lubumbashi sits around 1,200 meters (4,000 feet) above sea level. that's not like the ethiopian highlands, but it's enough to make your lungs burn the first few weeks. i arrived thinking i'd just lace up and go, only to find my usual 10k turned into a wheezing death march. you'll need to hydrate like a camel and maybe take it easy for a month. some expats swear by altitude masks; i just bought a cheap one off a street vendor and it made me look like a bank robber. check out r/congo's running threads for tips on acclimatization routes.
2. the weather: it's either hot and dry or hot and wet. the dry season (may to september) is actually cool in the mornings, like 15°c (59°f), which is perfect for long runs. but as soon as october hits, humidity climbs and the rains start. november to march can be brutal-torrential downpours that flood streets, turn red laterite roads into rivers of mud, and attract swarms of insects that love sweat. i once got caught in a storm and ended up running through a river that was where the road should've been. bring a poncho, seriously. as i write this, it's the tail end of the dry season, and the mornings have that crisp, dusty chill that makes your lungs feel clean (if you ignore the red dust). a fresh way to think about it: the heat here doesn't just hug you-it sits on your chest like a sack of wet cement until the first downpour, then it's a steam bath that never ends.
3. air quality is no joke. lubumbashi is surrounded by open-pit copper and cobalt mines. the dust is fine, red, and gets everywhere. i can taste metal on my tongue after a hard run, and my goggle lenses are permanently scratched. the city's traffic adds diesel fumes. if you have asthma or allergies, you'll struggle. some mornings i wake up and the sky is orange. a local friend told me 'the mountains are breathing copper'. it's both beautiful and terrifying. consider a good mask for everyday, not just for the virus.
4. safety: let's be real, crime exists. petty theft, pickpocketing, and occasional muggings are part of the urban fabric. as a runner, i've learned: never run alone after dark, avoid flashy jewelry, and leave the headphones at home. stick to well-lit, busy areas. i've had kids try to grab my water bottle from my hand while running; they're fast. there's also the risk of stray dogs, which can be aggressive. the expat bubble often says 'just stay in your neighborhood'.
'don't even think about running after 6pm, the street kids will chase you for your shoes.'
that's something i heard over a beer at a rooftop bar. true? partially. better safe than sorry. check out the travel advisories on TripAdvisor for updates.
5. cost of living: it's not as cheap as you'd think, especially if you want a comfortable expat lifestyle. rent for a 1-bedroom apartment in a decent area (like the villa or near the university) runs $350-$600 per month. a meal at a local 'maquis' (street food joint) is $2-$4; imported goods double that. utilities (electricity, water) can be iffy; we rely on a generator that costs extra. transportation: a shared taxi (taxi-bus) ride across town is $0.50; a private moto-taxi is $2. overall, you can live on $800-$1,200 a month if you're frugal, but add gym membership, decent internet, and occasional western meals, and it's $1,500+. Numbeo's cost of living index for Lubumbashi gives a rough picture, but field experience varies. i've learned to haggle at markets like a pro.
6. job market: unless you're in mining, the formal sector is limited. many foreigners work for NGOs, UN agencies, or in education (teaching english at the university or international schools). there's a growing tech scene, but it's nascent. as a runner, i tried to monetize my skills by offering coaching-hard when most locals can't afford it. i ended up writing for a fitness blog. your best bet is to secure a job before arriving, especially if you need a work permit. remote work is possible if your employer allows it, but internet can be spotty (more on that later).
'the mines pay well, but they also own the city. if you're not in that circle, you're scraping.'
something a south african expat muttered one night.
7. getting around: traffic is legendary. minibuses, sputtering motorcycles, and oversized trucks compete for space on potholed roads. as a runner, i sometimes run to places just to avoid the nightmare of rush hour. but beware: sidewalks are rare, and drivers don't expect pedestrians. i've had close calls. a decent alternative is hiring a driver for a few hours; it's cheaper than you think ($10-$15 for a half day). if you're brave, try the moto-taxis-they zip through gaps, but hold on tight. and never, ever walk alone at night unless you're in a guarded compound.
8. healthcare: forget the polish of western hospitals. there are a few private clinics (like the 'clinique de l'université' or 'bon suspenseur') that are okay for minor issues, but for anything serious you'll likely be referred to south africa or europe. bring a comprehensive health insurance that covers evacuation. i sprained my ankle and had to pay $50 for an x-ray and a brace-not bad, but quality was so-so. malaria prophylaxis is a must, and don't drink tap water. a local warned me:
'the water will give you a souvenir that keeps on giving. buy those big blue bottles.'
indeed.
9. language & culture: french is the official language, but swahili and lingala dominate the streets. learning a few phrases in kikongo or tshiluba will earn you nods of respect. locals are generally friendly, but there's a layer of wariness towards foreigners due to exploitation history. be humble, smile, and don't assume everyone is out to scam you. there's a vibrant music scene (rumba, soukous) and love for football. as a runner, i've joined a weekly group that meets at the 'stade de la kenya'-it's a dusty track but the energy is infectious. check out yelp's top-rated restaurants for a taste of local cuisine, like 'fumbwa' (cassava leaves) and grilled fish from lake mweru.
10. neighbors & travel: you're not isolated. within a few hours' drive you can cross into zambia (the town of ndola is 3 hours away) for a change of scenery and maybe better internet. the congo river and the mining heartland are close. and lubumbashi's airport (lubumbashi international, code: fbm) has flights to kinshasa (about 2 hours) and to johannesburg, nairobi, etc. so if you need a break, you can hop a flight. just be prepared for cancellations.
beyond these ten, there are tiny things: the internet is slow (if you're lucky), power outages happen daily, and the rainy season creates mosquito breeding grounds. but there's a raw, electric energy here that gets under your skin. i've run through markets at dawn, past children selling peanuts, and seen the sunrise over the mining pit that looks like a scar on the earth. it's not easy, but it's real.
if you're moving, pack patience, a sense of humor, and maybe a portable water filter. and for goodness' sake, bring more running shoes than you think you need.
You might also be interested in:
- https://topiclo.com/post/public-transportation-guide-how-to-get-around-nansana-like-a-local
- https://topiclo.com/post/hermosillo-for-pets-parks-vets-and-the-reality-check
- https://topiclo.com/post/concords-got-jobs-and-a-weird-vibe-my-take
- https://topiclo.com/post/delhi-its-a-mess-but-in-a-good-way
- https://topiclo.com/post/best-suburbs-in-sharjah-for-families-and-young-professionals