Amritsar: Golden Temples, Border Ceremonies, and a Whole Lot of Butter
okay, so i just got back from… Amritsar. India. It was… a lot. Like, a lot a lot. I’m still processing, honestly. Where do i even start? Let’s just dive in, because my brain is currently a tangled mess of spices and exhaust fumes.
First off, the location. It’s in Punjab, apparently the second-biggest city there after Ludhiana. Coordinates are 31°38′N 74°52′E. It’s… flat. Really flat. Like, you can see forever flat. And 234 meters above sea level. Doesn't really feel like much, to be honest. It’s not exactly close to anything either, 217 km from Chandigarh, 455 km from Delhi… and then there’s Lahore, Pakistan, just 47 km away. If you get bored, Ajnala, Attari, Beas, Jandiala Guru, Majitha, and Verka are just a short drive away. I didn’t make it to any of those, though. Too much Amritsar to absorb.
The history is… intense. Founded in 1577 by Guru Ram Das. Apparently, it grew around this sacred pool, Amrit Sarovar, which is where the city gets its name. It’s a huge deal for Sikhs, obviously, because of the Golden Temple. It’s a major cultural and spiritual center. Someone told me that the whole area used to be a swamp, and Guru Ram Das drained it. Wild, right?
And the climate… oh, the climate. I just checked and it’s 20.97°C there right now, feels like 20.25°C. Hope you like that kind of thing. Because it’s not always like that. Apparently, it gets hot. Like, up to 45°C in the summer. And freezing in the winter, down to -1°C. And monsoon season? Don’t even get me started. Apparently, it rains a lot then. And pollution… yeah, that’s a thing. Especially from October to February. I could definitely feel it.
Okay, let’s talk about the Golden Temple. Seriously, it’s breathtaking. The sheer scale of it is… overwhelming. And the community kitchen, the langar? They feed 100,000 people every day. Free. It’s insane. The equality thing is really powerful, seeing everyone eating together, regardless of background. You have to dress modestly, though. Covered shoulders and hair. They’re pretty strict about it.
Then there’s the Wagah Border ceremony. 28 km from the city. It’s… something. A really intense display of patriotism. India and Pakistan basically yelling at each other in a choreographed dance. It’s a bit unsettling, honestly, but also kind of fascinating. Border checks are a thing, so be prepared for that.
And the food! Oh my god, the food. Punjabi cuisine is no joke. So much butter. So much richness. I had Amritsari Kulcha - stuffed flatbread with chickpeas. Amazing. Makki di Roti and Sarson da Saag - cornbread with mustard greens. Equally amazing. And Lassi! Sweet, creamy Lassi. I think I gained five pounds just from that. Jalebi and papad too. I’m pretty sure my arteries are protesting right now.
People-wise, it’s predominantly Sikh, about 60-70%. Everyone was really friendly, though. Super hospitable. They really emphasize community service, apparently. And music - bhangra is a big thing. Festivals like Baisakhi and Diwali are huge. It’s a major transportation and economic hub, too. Everyone speaks Punjabi, which… I didn’t understand much of, to be honest.
Things to be aware of? The weather, obviously. The pollution. The crowds. The traffic is insane. And be careful with the street food, apparently. Bottled water only for me, thank you very much. Someone told me they got a stomach bug from a samosa. Not risking it.
Overall… Amritsar is intense. It’s chaotic. It’s overwhelming. But it’s also… beautiful. In a really raw, unfiltered kind of way. It’s a place that stays with you, you know? I’m exhausted, but I’m also glad I went. I think.
You might also be interested in:
- https://topiclo.com/post/rhythms-and-resonance-a-musicians-chaotic-love-affair-with-enugus-hills
- https://topiclo.com/post/seoul-cold-crowded-and-confusingly-cool
- https://topiclo.com/post/bekasi-the-city-thats-always-in-a-rush
- https://topiclo.com/post/stuttgart-its-complicated
- https://topiclo.com/post/bengaluru-hot-crowded-and-kind-of-amazing-i-think