Rhythms and Resonance: A Musician's Chaotic Love Affair with Enugu's Hills
ugh, another city, another stage, another set of expectations. enugu. the coal city. been here for 48 hours and my body's still trying to adjust to this tropical heat. i just checked and it's a balmy 32.75°C with that lovely humidity that makes your clothes stick to you before you even leave the hotel room, hope you like that kind of thing.
first thing i did when i got here was scope out the local music scene. someone told me that the underground jazz clubs near the old mining areas are legendary, but i've been to three venues already and they're either closed or have some kind of private party. the city's elevation means the acoustics are actually pretty interesting - less echo than i expected from the hills surrounding us.
rehearsals have been...interesting. the local musicians here have this incredible energy, but i swear the humidity is affecting my guitar strings. they keep going flat, and my voice feels like it's wrapped in cotton. heard that the sound tech at the main auditorium is actually pretty good though, if you can get through the booking process which seems to involve about seven different people who all need to sign off on everything. for more on the local music scene, you might want to check out this enugu entertainment guide.
food has been the real highlight though. the local joints around the market serve this pounded yam dish with egusi soup that's absolutely incredible. i've been trying to find a good coffee spot but everything seems to be either instant or way too expensive for my touring budget. if you get bored, abia state with aba is just a short drive away, and onitsha's only an hour west - heard their market has better street food options. you can find some authentic eateries reviewed on yelp.
the crowds here are something else. really engaged, really responsive, but also really quiet between songs. someone told me that's just how it is in this part of nigeria - they show their appreciation through intense focus rather than applause. i'm still getting used to it. last night, i tried a new song and could hear a pin drop during the instrumental break, which is terrifying when you're used to people shouting requests at you. for more about local customs, you might check the enugu state tourism board.
the hotel's been having power outages every night around 11pm, which is exactly when i'm usually trying to write new material or just decompress after a show. been using my phone flashlight to scribble lyrics on hotel stationery. it's chaotic, but somehow it's working. the city's got this strange energy - it's orderly but wild, historic but modern, all at the same time.
if you're a musician thinking of coming here, i'd say do it, but bring your own water and maybe a portable fan. the coal mining history gives the whole place this gritty, authentic vibe that you just don't find in more polished cities. and check out the reviews on tripadvisor for the local venues - some of them are surprisingly good, even if booking them is a nightmare.
tonight's show at the cultural center should be interesting. soundcheck starts in an hour, and i've got this new song i've been working on about the hills surrounding the city. they call it "enugu" meaning "hill top" but it's actually at the base of this escarpment. there's a metaphor in there somewhere, i just need to find it before i hit the stage.
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