arusha through the lens: a tired photographer's journal
so, i'm in arusha, tanzania, room 160196, and the wifi password is 1834288497 - memorize it if you visit. i've been here four days, and my shoulders ache from carrying my nikon d850 and three lenses. the light here is a fickle beast; one moment it's soft and warm, perfect for portraits, the next it's harsh midday sun that kills shadows. i just checked the weather app and it's...21 degrees celsius with 78% humidity, which means everything is damp and my camera gear is sweating bullets. hope you like that kind of thing for your own shooting days.
arusha is a chaotic blend of maasai culture, backpacker fumes, and safari preppies. i'm here to capture the raw edges, but i'm also secretly hoping for a postcard-perfect shot to pay my bills. the city is surrounded by mountains and parks, so nature is never far. here's a map of the area i've been roaming:
if you get bored of the city chaos, serengeti national park is about a 4-hour drive west, and locals tell me the wildebeest migration is at its peak now. but getting there requires a 4x4 and a guide, which costs a small fortune. i heard that some tour operators in arusha offer day trips, but the reviews on tripadvisor are mixed - some say it's rushed, others rave about the guides. check out the options here.
for my own shoots, i've been exploring the markets. this morning, i was at the central market, where the air smells of spices and sweat. i captured this:
the colors are insane - reds, yellows, blues from the kanga fabrics. i almost got my camera stolen when i left it unattended for a second. lesson learned: never let go of your gear. someone told me that the best time for market photos is early morning, before the crowds, but i slept in thanks to the mosque calls at 5 am.
later, i hiked to a viewpoint for mount meru. the hike was steep, and i was gasping, but the view:
the clouds were playing hide and seek, and i barely caught a clear shot. i heard from a fellow photographer that there's a secret spot on ngong hill for sunrise, but you need to hire a maasai warrior to guide you - it's not on any map. i might try that tomorrow if i can wake up.
for wildlife, i'm dying to get to serengeti. i saw this image online and it's driving me nuts:
i'm budgeting hard for a tour. someone on a photography forum said that booking through a local agency is cheaper than through big hotels, but you have to haggle. i found a reputable one on safari bookings, but read the reviews - some operators are dodgy.
other things: i ate at 'kuku plate' for lunch - ugali with chicken and vegetables. spicy and cheap. the owner, mama jane, told me she knows a spot for sunset photos over lake manyara, but it's a 2-hour drive. might be worth it. the humidity is killing my motivation. i clean my lens every hour, and it still gets spots. my laptop battery won't hold a charge, and the cafes here charge for wifi by the hour. i'm living on instant coffee from the hostel kitchen - it tastes like dirt, but it's free.
i've met some interesting people: a dancer from berlin who's here for a workshop, a backpacker from australia who's been on the road for a year, and a singer from nairobi who's performing at a local bar tonight. the vibe is always changing. if you're planning a trip, pack quick-dry clothes, a rain cover for your camera, and patience. arusha doesn't rush for anyone. the pressure is 1014 hpa, whatever that means, and ground level is 891 - my altimeter app says we're high up, which explains my altitude headache.
i need to sleep. the call to prayer just started, and my neighbor is snoring. tomorrow, i'm off to find that maasai guide for the sunrise shot. wish me luck, and if you have tips, slide into my instagram dm - @wanderlust_shots. but be warned, i might not reply for days. the internet out here is a myth. this is the life: tired, broke, but seeing the world through a viewfinder. arusha, you're a beautiful mess.
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