The Real Cost of Utilities and Bills in Salvador: A Freelance Photographer's Lament

okay, so, salvador. it’s…a lot. beautiful, chaotic, overflowing with color. but let’s talk about the actual money stuff, yeah? because the Instagram feed makes it look like you can live off caipirinhas and sunshine alone. spoiler alert: you can’t. i’m a freelance photographer here, and i’m basically running on coffee and anxiety these days trying to figure out how to budget.

first off, rent. uh, forget what you see on Airbnb. you’re looking at anywhere from $300-$800+ for a decent one-bedroom, depending on the neighborhood. Pelourinho is gorgeous, sure, but prepare to pay a premium. I’m currently in Santo Antônio Além do Carmo - much cooler, lots of little studios - and it’s costing me around R$700. (roughly $140 USD right now, give or take that crazy exchange rate). don't expect air conditioning everywhere. the humidity is real. you’ll be thankful for it in the winter, though.

but rent is just the tip of the iceberg, right? utilities are a whole other beast. electricity? god, the electricity. it’s ridiculously expensive. i’m talking like, $50-$100 a month depending on how much you air condition (which, let’s be honest, is most of the time). water is relatively cheap - around $15-$20 a month. internet? essential for a photographer, obviously. fiber optic is available, but it’ll set you back around $50-$70. and don't even think about relying on consistent power. blackouts happen. a lot. invest in a good power bank, trust me.

*Groceries & Eating Out: Look, the food scene in Salvador is incredible. seriously. but it adds up. fresh seafood is a must, but it’s not cheap. a basic grocery run - rice, beans, fruit - will easily cost you $100-$150. Eating out? a simple meal at a kilo restaurant (where you pay by the weight) can be as low as $8, but a nicer restaurant in a touristy area? prepare to open your wallet. I’ve heard rumors from a local street artist that the prices are creeping up, especially with all the tourists flooding the city. “They’re driving up everything, man,” he said, sketching a quick design on a napkin. “It’s getting harder to make ends meet.”

Transport: Getting around salvador is…an experience. Uber is relatively affordable, especially compared to taxis - think $5-$10 for a short trip. But the buses are the way to go if you’re trying to save money. Just be prepared for crowded conditions and a…unique driving style. Apparently, I overheard someone on a local subreddit (r/Salvador) complaining about the bus schedules being unpredictable. also, safety is a concern. stick to well-lit areas, especially at night.

Health Insurance: This one’s a biggie and often overlooked. Public healthcare (SUS) is free, but it’s often overcrowded and can be slow. Private insurance is available, but it's pricey - expect to pay at least $100-$200 a month. Budget students and digital nomads often rely on international health insurance, which can also be expensive. I’m currently looking into options… wish me luck.

Unexpected Costs: always factor in something for emergencies. Things break. You get sick. You accidentally buy a thousand mangoes. It happens. I’m constantly reminded of this by a vintage clothes picker I met at a market. “Always have a cushion,” she said, carefully examining a brightly colored scarf. “You never know what’s going to come your way.”

Here's a quick, not-at-all-comprehensive, cost breakdown (as of late 2023 - prices fluctuate, of course!):