Halifax, Nova Scotia: Where the Fog Tastes Like Salt and My Drumsticks Got a Little Rusty
okay, so halifax. i didn’t plan to end up here, honestly. touring with the band kinda fizzled out (long story involving a rogue seagull and a very expensive cymbal), and i needed somewhere… quiet. somewhere with decent coffee and, crucially, somewhere that wouldn’t judge me for ordering a second breakfast at 11 am. halifax delivered, in a way i wasn’t expecting.
i just checked and it’s… a proper grey out there right now. like, the kind of grey that seeps into your bones. the temperature’s hovering around -4, feels like -11, which, yeah, that’s just…halifax. pressure’s 1009, humidity’s 77 - basically, pack layers. seriously.
my days have been…chill. i’ve been renting a tiny apartment near the *hydrostones market (check it out on TripAdvisor - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g300344-d197388-Reviews-Hydrostone_Market-Halifax_Nova_Scotia.html). it’s got this amazing little coffee shop called Java Blend - seriously, the best latte i’ve had in months. i’m not usually one for fancy coffee, but their oat milk lattes are chef’s kiss.
“Don’t go near the Public Gardens after dark. Something about a… a spectral gardener. Sounds like a load of codswallop, but my grandma swore by it.”
that’s what a very tipsy gentleman told me at the Stubborn Scotsman pub the other night. i’m not usually into ghost stories, but hey, it’s halifax. it’s got that vibe. i did wander through the Public Gardens during the day, though. it’s actually really lovely, all Victorian flowerbeds and wrought iron.
and the drumming… oh man, my sticks are feeling it. haven’t played a proper gig in weeks. i’ve been noodling around, trying to get back into the groove. the acoustics in my apartment are… questionable, to say the least. my neighbor, mrs. higgins, keeps banging on the wall. she’s a sweet lady, though. apparently, she’s a retired opera singer. i think she appreciates the… intensity of my practice sessions.
“The Citadel Hill? Overrated. Just a bunch of tourists taking pictures. Go to McNab’s Island instead. Real history, real views.”
that’s what i overheard two locals saying at a bus stop. i checked out Citadel Hill (Yelp has some decent reviews - https://www.yelp.com/biz/citadel-hill-national-historic-site-halifax). it’s…fine. a big fort. lots of cannons. but mcnab’s island… that’s where it’s at. it’s a short ferry ride away, and it feels like you’ve stepped back in time.
if you’re into vintage clothes, you have to check out Goodwill on Gottingen Street. i found an amazing 70s velvet blazer there for like, ten bucks. seriously. it’s a goldmine. i’m thinking of starting a little side hustle, buying and selling vintage finds. who knows?
“Don’t trust the seagulls. They’re smarter than they look. They’ll steal your chips, your sandwich, your dignity.”
that was a drunk guy at the waterfront. he wasn’t wrong. those seagulls are ruthless.
if you get bored, moncton and sydney are just a short drive away. i’m thinking of taking a day trip to pei next week. need to shake things up a bit. i’ve been browsing local forums (https://halifax.ca/community/boards) for recommendations on hidden beaches and quirky cafes.
gear list (because, you know, drummer things):
my trusty tama starclassic maple drums (slightly dusty)
vic firth 5a sticks (getting worn)
snare drum dampener (essential)
noise-canceling headphones (for mrs. higgins’ sake)
a very large mug for coffee
pro-tips:
wear waterproof shoes. seriously.
learn a few basic french phrases. it’s acadian territory.
be prepared for fog. lots and lots of fog.
don’t feed the seagulls.
* embrace the quiet. it’s good for the soul.
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