Bergen: Rain, Regret, and Really Good Brown Cheese
okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. bergen, norway. it’s… a lot. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. like, perpetually damp and smelling faintly of fish and something vaguely floral. it’s not bad, not bad at all, just… intense. i landed here after a series of questionable decisions involving a flight deal and a misplaced sense of adventure. let’s just say my bank account is currently weeping.
I’m staying in this tiny guesthouse - seriously, tiny. like, you could probably do yoga in the bathroom. it’s called ‘The Herring’s Rest’ which, honestly, is a little on the nose. the guy who runs it, Bjorn, keeps offering me pickled herring. i politely declined. multiple times. he just stares at me with this incredibly serious expression.
Spent the morning wandering around Bryggen, the old wharf. it’s ridiculously picturesque, all those colorful wooden buildings stacked on top of each other. it felt like stepping into a postcard, but a postcard that’s also slightly depressing because you realize you’re probably going to spend your entire trip trying to avoid getting soaked. i managed to snag some photos, though. my gear list is basically just my camera, a waterproof bag (thank god), and a healthy dose of pessimism.
Someone told me that the Fløibanen funicular is a must-do, but i’m leaning towards just accepting my fate and embracing the drizzle. i heard that the views are incredible, but honestly, i’m more interested in finding a cozy pub and nursing a beer. i’m looking for a place with a decent selection of local craft beers - something dark and malty, preferably. I found a place called ‘Bryggens Bryggeri’ - it seemed promising.
I stumbled across a little shop selling local cheeses. seriously, the cheese. they have this brown cheese called ‘Geitost’ - it’s… an experience. It’s crumbly and tangy and smells vaguely of feet. i tried a tiny piece. it was… memorable. I overheard a group of tourists arguing about whether it was good or bad. one of them said, "My grandmother would spit it out!" which, you know, is a pretty reliable endorsement.
Speaking of locals, if you get bored, Oslo is just a short drive away. I’ve heard they have some seriously cool street art. I also heard that the seafood is phenomenal, but i’m pretty sure i’m going to stick to the cheese for the rest of my trip. It’s a coping mechanism, okay?
Pressure: 1010, Humidity: 73, Sea Level: 1012. It’s… consistent. I’m starting to think this is the new normal. I need to find a decent coffee shop. Seriously. Maybe check out this place, ‘Kaffebrenneriet’ - Yelp says they have amazing espresso. https://www.yelp.com/biz/kaffebrenneriet-bergen And TripAdvisor recommends the Hanseatic Museum. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g190445-d1233333-Reviews-Hanseatic_Museum_and_Cardamom_Bunker-Bergen_Vestfold_County.html I’m contemplating just spending the rest of the day wandering around and trying to avoid eye contact with Bjorn and his pickled herring. It’s a plan.
Seriously, though, Bergen is… something. It’s not glamorous, it’s not always pleasant, but it’s definitely real. And maybe, just maybe, that’s exactly what I needed.
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