Bogota's Buzz: A Botanist's (Slightly Chaotic) Field Notes
okay, so bogota. where do i even begin? i’m elara, by the way, and i’m a botanist, which basically means i spend most of my time staring at plants and occasionally getting mud on my boots. this trip was… different. less mud, more altitude, a whole lot more pigeons.
i just checked and it’s… a sort of humid drizzle right now, clinging to everything like a determined vine. not exactly ideal for spotting orchids, but hey, the moss seemed pretty happy. i was mostly there to check out the flora in the surrounding mountains, specifically looking for some rare bromeliads. didn’t find those exactly, but stumbled upon some seriously impressive cloud forest ecosystems.
my base was in La Candelaria, which is… intense. cobblestone streets, graffiti everywhere (in a good way, mostly), and the air just vibrates with energy. i spent a lot of time wandering, getting hopelessly lost, and occasionally buying arepas from street vendors. seriously, the arepas. get the ones with cheese. trust me.
“Don’t go near the Museo del Oro after 6 pm. Something about… shadows. And a very persistent security guard who doesn’t like tourists.”
that’s what a very drunk guy told me at a bar. i didn’t go after 6 pm, just in case. i did check out the museum during the day, though. it’s incredible - gold, gold everywhere. apparently, the spanish were really into gold. who knew?
getting around is… an experience. the TransMilenio is a beast. a metal, crowded, occasionally terrifying beast. but it gets you places. i also took a cable car up to Monserrate. the views are insane. you can see the whole city spread out below you, all those little boxes and winding streets. it’s breathtaking, honestly. check out some reviews on TripAdvisor before you go, though - apparently, the lines can be brutal. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g297479-d192423-Reviews-Monserrate_Cable_Car-Bogota_Bogota_Department.html
food-wise, i was mostly eating street food. arepas, empanadas, ajiaco (a chicken and potato soup - surprisingly delicious). i did try a fancy restaurant once, but honestly, i missed the chaos of the street vendors. plus, they were playing elevator music. who does that?
“The best coffee is not in the touristy cafes. Ask a taxi driver. They know the good stuff.”
that’s what someone told me. and they were right. i ended up in this tiny little place tucked away on a side street, run by a woman who clearly knew her beans. it was… transcendent. i’m now officially obsessed with Colombian coffee. i’m thinking of opening my own little cafe when i get back. maybe.
if you get bored, Tunja and Zipaquirá are just a short drive away. both have interesting historical sites. i spent a day in Zipaquirá exploring the Salt Cathedral - it’s pretty wild being underground like that. you can find some good deals on tours on Yelp. https://www.yelp.com/biz/salt-cathedral-zipaquira
*Monserrate was a highlight, obviously. La Candelaria is a must-wander. the arepas… seriously, eat all the arepas. the coffee… find a local. the pigeons*… just… watch out for the pigeons. they’re everywhere.
and a word of warning: someone told me that the buses can be a bit… unpredictable. apparently, they sometimes change routes without warning. so, always double-check before you hop on. you can find more local advice on this forum: https://www.expat.com/forum/bogota-colombia-general-discussion-f33.113131/.
overall? bogota is… a lot. it’s chaotic, it’s vibrant, it’s a little bit overwhelming, and it’s absolutely unforgettable. i’d go back in a heartbeat. just maybe with a stronger pair of walking shoes.
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