Commute Times in Bamako: How Long Will You Spend in Traffic (and Maybe Your Sanity?)

okay, so, let’s talk about Bamako. seriously. i’ve been here three weeks now, fueled by lukewarm bissap and a growing suspicion that my internal clock is permanently set to West African time. and the traffic? jesus. it’s not just traffic, it’s a ritual. a slow, simmering, horn-blasting, existential crisis. i’m a touring session drummer, you know? i’m used to chaos, but this… this is different. it’s like wading through molasses made of motorbikes and battered pickup trucks.

I started tracking it, obviously. because, you know, data. i’m a sucker for data. i downloaded a bunch of apps, tried to use Google Maps (which, let’s be real, is about as reliable as a politician’s promise), and then just started scribbling notes in a battered notebook i picked up at a market. the results are… alarming.

*Here’s the lowdown (as of today, November 3rd, 2023):

(Seriously, check out this Reddit thread - it’s a goldmine of misery: https://www.reddit.com/r/Bamako/comments/14q3z7k/bamako_traffic_tips_and_nightmares/)

It’s not just the time, it’s the vibe. It’s the constant honking, the shouted conversations, the sheer density of… everything. The weather’s been weird too. Like, one minute it’s this thick, humid haze - feels like you’re swimming in warm soup - and the next it’s this dry, dusty heat that just sucks the moisture right out of your skin. There’s a place about a three-hour drive north called Sélingué, they say it’s like stepping into a different planet. Totally dry, high altitude, and supposedly incredible stargazing. I’m thinking about heading out there next week, just to escape the asphalt for a bit.

Speaking of locals, I overheard a guy at a cafe - he was nursing a glass of something dark and potent - telling me, “The traffic is a reflection of the soul. Slow, tangled, full of frustration. But also… full of life.” Deep, right? I think he was also pretty hammered.

Overheard Gossip #1: “Don’t even think about taking a taxi after 6 pm. Unless you enjoy being stuck for three hours and paying double.”

Overheard Gossip #2: “My cousin tried to drive to the airport yesterday. He’s still arguing with the driver about the fare. It’s a blood sport, man.”

Overheard Gossip #3: “They’re talking about building a metro line, but… who knows when? It’s been ‘coming soon’ for twenty years.”

Okay, let’s talk money. Bamako isn’t cheap, but it’s also not like Monaco. Here’s a rough breakdown (as of today, November 3rd, 2023 - prices are always fluctuating):

(Check out TripAdvisor for some decent restaurant reviews: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g298433-Bamako.html)

Seriously, the job market is… interesting. Mostly NGOs, aid organizations, and small businesses. I’ve been networking like crazy, trying to find gigs as a drummer. It’s tough, but there’s a surprising amount of creative energy here. I saw a street artist painting a mural yesterday - incredible stuff. He was using this really vibrant, almost hallucinatory color palette. (Okay, I slipped up there. Sorry.)

I’m starting to think the traffic is a necessary evil. It forces you to slow down, to observe, to connect with the people around you. It’s a chaotic, frustrating, beautiful mess. And honestly? I wouldn’t trade it. (Maybe. Okay, probably* not.)

(For more local insights, check out this Bamako Facebook group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/BamakoExpats/)

And one last thing: don’t trust anyone who says the traffic isn’t bad. They’re lying. Or drunk. Probably both.

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