Dubai: Sand, Skyscrapers, and Seriously Confusing Laws (A Travel Diary)

okay, so dubai. where do i even start? i’ve been meaning to write this for days, but honestly, unpacking and trying to remember what time zone i’m even in anymore is proving difficult. it’s… a lot. like, a lot a lot.

first off, the location. apparently, it’s on the persian gulf coast, coordinates 25°16′11″N 55°18′34″E. who needs to know that, right? but apparently, it’s important. it’s also, like, 16 meters above sea level. thrilling. the whole place is about 4,110 square kilometers, which is bigger than i thought, especially with all the land they’ve reclaimed. there’s this creek thing, dubai creek, that splits the city into deira and bur dubai. apparently, it used to be a big deal for fishing and pearl diving. now it’s… well, it’s there.

i just checked and it’s 18.95°c there right now, feels like 18.08°c, humidity at 45%. pressure’s 1017, sea level’s 1017 too. hope you like that kind of thing. because summers? forget about it. apparently, it gets ridiculously hot, like 40°c with humidity over 90%. i’m glad i went in… whatever this is. winter, i guess?

historically, it was all about fishing and trading. apparently, there are some old buildings along the creek, some restored wind towers from the early 20th century. persian-influenced, apparently. i didn’t really see any, to be honest. mostly just a lot of glass and steel. it transformed after they found oil, which, you know, explains a lot.

and the geography! it’s in the arabian desert. fine, white sand, salt plains, dunes… the western hajar mountains are nearby, rising to 1,300 meters. no rivers or oases, though. so, yeah, desert. it’s a hot desert climate, which is a fancy way of saying it’s hot and dry.

if you get bored, abu dhabi, sharjah, and the sultanate of oman are just a short drive away. someone told me abu dhabi is… calmer. maybe i’ll check it out next time.

tourist attractions? burj khalifa, obviously. it’s ridiculously tall. palm jumeirah, which is a giant artificial palm tree. dubai mall, which is… huge. burj al arab, the sail-shaped hotel. jumeirah beach. desert dunes. you know, the usual. i went to the burj khalifa. the view was… impressive. but also, a little overwhelming.

the food was… interesting. al harees, machboos, shawarma, mankeesh, luqaimat. lots of rice and meat. apparently, emirati meals often include harees, seafood, and camel meat. i tried the shawarma. it was good. i didn’t try the camel meat. i’m not sure i’m ready for that.

notable people? sheikh mohammed bin rashid al maktoum. he’s a big deal. apparently, he’s also a poet and a horseman. there are some sports figures too, like khalid ismail. and lots of business leaders. it’s a very… business-y place.

the population is over 3.5 million, but mostly expats. like, over 85% expats. it’s a really diverse place, with people from all over the world. emirati culture emphasizes hospitality, islamic traditions, and family values. they’re pretty strict about modesty and prayer times. and falconry, apparently. it’s a weird mix of tradition and luxury. arabic is the official language, but everyone speaks english.

things to be aware of? the heat, obviously. and the cultural norms. don’t eat in public during ramadan. dress modestly. no public displays of affection. and the laws! apparently, they’re really strict about drugs and alcohol (only in licensed venues). and photography restrictions. and traffic fines via cameras. someone told me they got a huge fine for taking a picture of a building. seriously. and it’s expensive to live there. and traffic is terrible. and you need a visa to live there, which requires sponsorship. and the humidity makes the heat even worse. and women need to be aware of gender-specific facilities.

distinctive features? ambitious engineering. land reclamation. the tallest structures. indoor skiing in the desert! it’s a global trade hub with no income tax. it’s a symbol of rapid transformation. and they’re hosting expo 2020. it’s… a lot to take in.

i’m exhausted. i need a nap. and maybe a strong drink. (in a licensed venue, of course.)

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