Dust & Echoes in Oaxaca: Seriously, What *Is* This Place?
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee right now. 1264111… that’s the number of times i’ve nearly tripped over a stray dog in the last 48 hours. 1356847218… that’s the number of times i’ve said ‘¡gracias!’ and probably butchered the pronunciation. and the weather? i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 23.69 degrees, feels like 23.11, pressure 1019, humidity 38, sea level 1019, ground level 990. it’s like a perpetually damp, slightly sticky hug.
Oaxaca. seriously. it’s… a thing. a beautiful, chaotic, slightly unsettling thing. i landed at the airport and immediately felt like i’d stepped into a movie set - not a glossy, Instagram-filtered one, but one with a lot of peeling paint and the smell of roasting chiles. i’m staying in this little courtyard place near the zocalo, and it’s basically a warren of tiny shops selling everything from handwoven textiles to suspiciously bright pottery.
I’m trying to be a professional, you know? a travel blogger. but honestly, it’s hard to maintain a facade when you’re constantly dodging motorbikes and trying to decipher the local slang. someone told me that the best mole in town is at ‘La Casa de Sofia,’ but i also heard that the guy who runs it uses a secret ingredient - bat wings. i’m leaning towards sticking with the tacos al pastor, thanks.
Let’s talk gear, because i’m a mess. my camera bag is basically a black hole. i’ve got three lenses, a ridiculously oversized tripod, and enough memory cards to fill a small country. essential: a good pair of walking shoes. seriously, you’ll be doing a lot of walking. also: bug spray. the mosquitoes here are tiny, vicious, and apparently have a personal vendetta against my ankles. bonus: a phrasebook. my spanish is… functional. mostly involving pointing and smiling.
I spent yesterday wandering through the templo de Santo Domingo, which is absolutely insane. like, seriously, the architecture is mind-blowing. it’s covered in gold leaf and intricate carvings. it felt like stepping into a forgotten empire. I overheard some older women gossiping near the entrance - something about a lost treasure hidden somewhere within the walls. they said it was guarded by a spirit, of course. classic.
I stumbled across this amazing little street art scene down in the barrio de Andador Degollado. it’s not the polished, gallery-worthy stuff you see in some cities. it’s raw, gritty, and full of political commentary. one mural depicted a giant, weeping cactus - i have no idea what it meant, but it was pretty powerful. I’m thinking of trying my hand at some street art myself, but i’m pretty sure i’d just end up looking like a toddler with a spray can.
“Don’t trust the guy selling the mezcal. He’ll tell you it’s ‘aged in oak,’ but it’s probably just aged in a rusty bucket.” - A very grumpy taxi driver.
Speaking of mezcal, it’s basically the lifeblood of Oaxaca. I’ve been sampling it at every opportunity, and i’m starting to think i’m developing a slight addiction. it’s smoky, spicy, and surprisingly potent. if you’re visiting, be warned: you’ll be offered it constantly. and you’ll probably say yes.
If you get bored, Guadalajara is just a short drive away, and Mexico City is a bit further, but honestly, there’s so much to do here that i’m struggling to leave. I’m planning a day trip to Hierve el Agua - these petrified waterfalls are supposed to be incredible. I heard that the water is incredibly cold, even in the heat.
I’m seriously considering just buying a small plot of land and settling down here. maybe open a little cafe serving mole and mezcal. or a gallery showcasing local artists. or just… exist. it’s a tempting thought, especially when the sun is setting over the mountains and the air is filled with the scent of tortillas.
I found this amazing little cafe called ‘El Jardín Secreto’ - it’s tucked away down a side street and has the most incredible coffee. they use locally roasted beans and make everything by hand. it’s a little slice of heaven. Check out TripAdvisor for more restaurant recommendations.
Okay, I need more coffee. and maybe a nap. and definitely a new pair of socks. this place is a whirlwind.
Yelp has some good reviews too!
Seriously, if you’re looking for an adventure, Oaxaca is it. just… be prepared to embrace the chaos. and the mosquitoes. and the bat wing mole.
Explore more on Oaxaca Travel
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