Hong Kong Humidity & Hidden Dumpling Dens: A Botanist's Bewilderment
okay, so. hong kong. wow. just…wow. i’m still peeling the city off my skin, honestly. i’m elara, by the way, and i usually spend my days elbow-deep in soil, cataloging obscure ferns in the amazon. this? this is…different.
I landed a few days ago, and the air just hit me. i just checked and it’s a damp hug right now, clinging to everything. the kind of humidity that makes your hair instantly frizz and your camera lens fog up. delightful. i’m used to rainforests, obviously, but this is a different beast. it’s…urban rainforest. concrete and humidity, a weirdly compelling combo.
I’m here ostensibly to research some of the unique epiphytes growing on the buildings - seriously, some of these orchids are thriving in the most improbable places. but mostly, i’m just wandering, getting lost, and eating. so. much. food.
I stumbled upon this tiny dumpling place in *Sheung Wan - seriously, it was tucked away down an alley so narrow i almost missed it. the sign was just a hand-painted picture of a dumpling. no name. no english. just…dumplings. i’m pretty sure the woman running it has been making them for seventy years, and she doesn’t need to advertise. someone told me that the soup dumplings there are legendary, but i was too busy inhaling the pork ones to investigate. you can find some reviews (though they’re mostly in cantonese) on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/.
I’ve been trying to be organized, you know, like a real scientist. i even made a little notebook to jot down observations. mostly it’s filled with sketches of interesting mosses and frantic notes about where to find the best bubble tea.
Here’s a quick list of things i’ve learned so far:
*Bring a towel. Seriously. You’ll thank me.
*Learn a few basic cantonese phrases. Even just “thank you” goes a long way.
*Don’t be afraid to get lost. Some of the best discoveries happen when you’re not looking for them.
*The 7-Eleven’s are a lifeline. Seriously, they have everything.
*Negotiate at the markets. It’s expected, and it’s fun.
I spent an afternoon wandering around Kowloon, just soaking it all in. the sheer density of people is…intense. but also kind of exhilarating. it’s like everyone is buzzing with a purpose. i overheard a couple of guys arguing about mahjong - apparently, there’s serious money involved. i also saw a group of kids playing a game with bottle caps in a tiny patch of concrete. it was beautiful.
“Apparently, if you don’t tip the ferry guy, you’ll have bad luck for a week. Drunk advice, but i’m not taking any chances.”
I’m staying in a tiny guesthouse in Wong Tai Sin, which is surprisingly peaceful. if you get bored, Shenzhen is just a short drive away, apparently. i’m thinking of taking a day trip there to check out the botanical gardens. i found a forum with some recommendations: https://www.tripadvisor.com/.
Someone else warned me about the crowds at Victoria Peak* - apparently, it’s a tourist trap. but i’m still planning on going. i need to see the view. i’m also hoping to find some interesting lichens growing on the rocks. you know, for science.
I’m also checking out some local plant shops. i found one on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g305743-d12345678-Reviews-Green_Gardens_Hong_Kong-Hong_Kong.html.
Honestly, i’m exhausted. but in a good way. like, pleasantly overwhelmed. i have no idea what tomorrow will bring, but i’m ready for it. probably more dumplings. definitely more humidity. and hopefully, a few new plant discoveries. check back soon for more updates (if i can find wifi!).
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