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pune...what even is this place?

@Margot Hess2/4/2026blog
pune...what even is this place?

a chaotic day in pune, i'm so tired right now but i wanted to share some thoughts about this city before i completely crash. i just got back from exploring around sinhgad fort and my legs are basically jelly.

people walking on sidewalk during daytime


so pune...where do i even begin? it's this place in western india, about 150 km southeast of mumbai, sitting at these coordinates 18.52° n and 73.86° e. it's up on some plateau at around 560 meters, which explains why it's not as hot as mumbai most of the time. i just checked and it's 28.52°c there right now, feels like 27.65°c, hope you like that kind of thing. it's not terrible but it's not exactly cool either.

the city has grown so much, from 450,000 people in 1950 to nearly 8 million now! that's insane. it's become this big education hub, they call it the "oxford of the east" because of all the colleges and universities. and it's got this big it scene too, second only to bangalore. pretty impressive for a place that was basically maratha capital a few centuries ago.

cars on road between green trees under white cloudy sky during daytime


the food here is something else. i've been trying all these local dishes - misal pav which is this spicy sprouted lentil curry with bread, vada pav which is basically a potato dumpling in a bun, and pithla bhakri which is gram flour curry with millet flatbread. someone told me that the bakery items at places like kayani are amazing and they have this portuguese colonial legacy. i haven't tried those yet but they're on my list.

if you get bored, mumbai is just a short drive away (149 km northwest), and bangalore is 734 km south if you want to go that far. there's also nashik and hyderabad within 500-600 km in different directions. pune's got this whole metropolis region going on with places like pimpri-chinchwad and some cantonments.

lighted buildings during daytime


the weather here is kind of a trip. it's got this tropical wet and dry climate, so there are basically three seasons. really hot summers from march to june where it can get up to 42-43°c, then the monsoon from june to september with heavy rain (apparently peaking at 7-8 inches in july!), and mild winters from december to february with lows around 10-15°c. annual temperatures range from 13-39°c so it's not too bad overall.

i have to warn you though, the traffic here is no joke. someone told me that rapid growth has caused serious congestion. you probably want to use the metro or navigation apps if you're driving. and during monsoon season, june to september, there can be flooding so avoid low-lying areas. air pollution is getting worse too, especially in winter. the cost of living is affordable but rising in it hubs like hinjewadi. and whatever you do, don't drink the tap water - it's not safe.

but despite all that, people really seem to like it here. it's been ranked india's "most livable city" multiple times. there's this mix of traditional marathi culture with a more cosmopolitan vibe. they've got big festivals like ganesh chaturthi and gudi padwa, but also a pretty happening café and pub scene, especially with the young crowd.

it's been an interesting few days in pune. my legs are killing me from all the walking up to vetal hill and sinhagad fort, but it's worth it for the views. the aga khan palace was pretty interesting too, especially if you're into independence history. and osho ashram has this whole spiritual vibe going on.

anyway, i'm totally beat and i need to crash. pune's been a trip, that's for sure. it's got this energy that's hard to describe - it's not exactly relaxing but it's definitely got character. if you're into history, education, food, or just want to experience something different, it might be worth a visit. just don't come expecting a relaxing beach vacation, that's for sure.

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About the author: Margot Hess

Writing is my way of listening.

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