tehran: mountains, smog, and way too many people
i just got back from a whirlwind trip to tehran, and honestly, i'm exhausted. it's a city that's both ancient and modern, both beautiful and...well, let's just say challenging.
first things first, tehran is huge. like, 14 million people huge. it sprawls across this crazy landscape where mountains in the north (and i mean real mountains, with snow and everything) meet desert plains in the south. the name actually means "warm slope," which makes sense when you realize the elevation ranges from about 1,100 meters in the south to over 1,800 meters in the north.
the city's history is pretty interesting. it became iran's capital back in 1786 by some guy named āghā mohammad khān from the qajar dynasty. what started as a small village turned into this massive metropolis. someone told me that the grand bazaar is like, a whole city within a city. you could get lost in there for days. and then there's the golestan palace, which is a unesco site from the qajar era. pretty impressive stuff.
the climate is...extreme. i just checked and it's 6.62°c right now, feels like 1.67°c. hope you like that kind of thing. summers are hot and arid, winters are very cold and dry. the alborz mountains block moisture from the caspian sea, so humidity is low. average annual temperature is 17°c, but that doesn't really tell you much about the extremes you'll experience.
the food was amazing, though. i tried chelo kebab (rice with grilled meat), which is apparently the national dish. also had some ghormeh sabzi (herb stew) and fesenjan (pomegranate-walnut stew). the teahouses are cool places to hang out, serving saffron tea and this nougat called gaz. street food like dizi (lamb stew) and ash reshteh (noodle soup) are worth trying too.
if you get bored, karaj (to the west along the karaj river), varamin (southeast), or areas toward qazvin (northwest) and damavand (northeast, near mount damavand) are just a short drive away. shemiran, now part of northern tehran, was historically separate. someone told me that the views of mount damavand (iran's highest peak at 5,600 meters) are incredible on clear days.
the city has some interesting landmarks too. milad tower is the tallest in iran, and tochal telecabin gives you access to the alborz mountains. azadi tower is pretty iconic. honestly, the most striking thing about tehran is its topography - mountains meeting desert creates this unique breeze called the "tochal breeze" that cools things down at night. you can even go skiing just minutes from the urban heat.
but let's be real - tehran isn't without its challenges. the air and noise pollution is severe, trapped by the mountains. traffic congestion is insane, and there are water shortages. plus, the city is on seismic faults, so earthquake risks are a thing. summers can be scorching, and winters in the north are snowy. under islamic republic laws, there are strict dress codes, alcohol bans, and internet restrictions.
the population is predominantly persian with azeri, armenian, and other ethnic groups. it's a mix of conservative islamic values and modern café scenes. the people are young, educated, and resilient despite the urban challenges.
so yeah, tehran. it's a city of contrasts - old and new, beautiful and polluted, traditional and modern. it's definitely an experience, but maybe pack a good face mask and some patience.
You might also be interested in:
- https://topiclo.com/post/montreal-where-my-nose-froze-off-and-i-accidentally-spoke-french
- https://topiclo.com/post/rawalpindi-where-my-maps-app-gave-up-on-me
- https://topiclo.com/post/enugu-nigeria-where-the-heat-meets-the-hills-and-my-camera
- https://topiclo.com/post/shymkent-where-steppe-meets-chaos-and-cold-toes
- https://topiclo.com/post/vasaivirar-where-goa-meets-mumbai-suburbs-and-its-hot-right-now