Is Gaalkacyo Overrated? A Reality Check for Newcomers (And Why I’m Still Here)
okay, so, like, I’ve been here six months. six months in Gaalkacyo. and honestly? the internet’s kinda blowing it out of proportion. everyone’s posting these filtered pics of the ocean - turquoise, shimmering, you know? - and talking about ‘authentic Somali culture.’ it’s…fine. it’s okay. but it’s not some Instagram paradise. let’s get real.
Seriously, the weather’s…weird. It’s like, perpetually damp. not like a cozy rain, more like a humid, clinging mist that just stays. it’s called ‘the grey breath,’ and everyone just accepts it. it’s been consistently around 28 degrees Celsius with 80% humidity for the last month. it’s not exactly ideal for a skateboarder, let me tell you. you’re about a two-hour drive to Hargeisa, which is…well, it’s Hargeisa. a little less chaotic, a little more…established. and then there’s Berbera, a short flight away - that’s where the real action is, apparently. lots of fishing, a decent beach, and a surprisingly good scene for live music.
I’m a freelance photographer, so I’ve been trying to build a portfolio. the work is…there. it’s not glamorous. mostly portraits of fishermen, kids playing in the streets, and the occasional shot of the harbor. the lighting is brutal, constantly battling the grey breath.
*Cost of Living Breakdown (Rough Estimate - as told by a perpetually broke student):Category Monthly Cost (USD) Rent (Studio) $150 - $250 Food $100 - $180 Internet $30 - $50 Transportation $20 - $40 Entertainment $50 - $100
(Don’t even think about trying to find a decent coffee shop. you’ll be lucky to get a lukewarm, sugary drink. I’m talking about a serious caffeine withdrawal here.)
Okay, so, I overheard some seriously juicy gossip at the local market yesterday. Apparently, the mayor’s son is trying to open a tourist resort, but everyone’s convinced it’s going to be a total disaster. “He’s got zero understanding of the local culture,” one woman said, shaking her head. “It’ll be like a giant, overpriced hotel for tourists who don’t know the first thing about Somalia.”
Overheard Gossip #1: “The security situation is…stable, but you gotta be careful. Don’t flash your cash, and don’t wander around alone at night.”
Overheard Gossip #2: “The best place to eat is Abdi’s. But be prepared to wait. It’s always packed.” (Abdi’s is legit. Seriously good Somali food. Worth the wait.)
I’m also getting a weird vibe from some of the older guys around the docks. They seem to watch me a lot. I’m not paranoid, but…it’s something. I’ve been reading up on the local laws, and it seems like photography is generally okay, as long as you don’t take pictures of government buildings or military installations.
Safety Tip (from a disillusioned consultant): “Don’t argue with anyone. Seriously. Just…don’t. It’s not worth it.”
There’s a subreddit for expats in Somalia - it’s called r/GaalkacyoLife. It’s mostly filled with people who are trying to escape, but there are a few decent threads about practical advice. https://www.reddit.com/r/GaalkacyoLife/
And, you know, TripAdvisor has some mixed reviews. Mostly about the weather and the lack of amenities. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g509777-Gaalkacyo_Somalia.html
I’m still here. I’m documenting everything. It’s not a fairytale, but it’s…real. It’s challenging, frustrating, and occasionally beautiful. I’m trying to build something here, a portfolio, a connection, a life. and honestly? the grey breath is starting to feel…familiar.
Final Word (from a history nerd):* “Gaalkacyo has a fascinating history as a trading port. It was once a major center of commerce, connecting the Red Sea with the interior of Somalia. You can still see remnants of its past in the architecture and the traditions of the people.”
Check out Yelp for some restaurant recommendations (though be warned, the reviews are…sparse). https://www.yelp.com/directory/gaalkacyo-somalia
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