Long Read

Tongjin or Bust: My Random Expat Checklist Shenanigans

@Sophia Berg2/8/2026blog

ever since i rolled into tongjin i’ve been juggling my sketchbook and a caffeine habit that would make a coffee snob weep. the weather lately feels like someone slapped a neon haze over the city-think electric drizzle with a hint of static buzz, and the folks next door are just a short scooter hop or a quick ferry glide away.

here’s the lowdown on safety: the homicide rate hovers around 1.2 per 10k, which is better than most metro areas, but keep your bag zipped in the night markets. rent for a one‑bedroom in the artsy quarter runs about $850, while a shared studio in the outskirts drops to $550 if you’re willing to commute. the job market for illustrators is thin but hopeful; local agencies are hiring freelancers for app icons, and the average freelance gig pays $35 an hour if you can nail the vector shit on deadline.

some drunk advice i got from a bar regular: “don’t trust the third floor of the old library; the wi‑fi drops every time the rain hits the glass.” overheard gossip from the corner stall: “they’re planning to tear down the old brick wall on 5th to build a luxury condo, but the artists are fighting back with murals.” another whisper: “the underground gallery on han river lane still hosts pop‑up shows, but you need a password-‘ink‑storm’-to get in.

gear list for surviving tongjin as an illustrator:
- a sturdy sketchpad that can handle wet ink without warping
- a set of brush pens with 0.3 mm tips for those fine line details
- a portable external monitor calibrated to srgb, because the city’s light is brutal
- a vpn that actually works-local internet throttles indie sites

pro‑tips (scattered like my coffee stains):
- hit up the night market on thursday for cheap ramen; the broth is spiked with gochujang and the stall owners will trade you extra napkins for a doodle.
- join the local “ink‑exchange” meetup; it’s a chaotic potluck where everyone swaps prints and critique each other’s line weight.
- check out the rooftop garden on the 12th floor of the municipal building; it’s a quiet spot with a view of the skyline that looks like a circuit board at dusk.

*culture hits you hard when you realize the city’s obsession with retro tech-think cassette players in cafés and neon signage that flickers like a heartbeat. budget* travelers swear by the cheap laundromats that double as informal lecture halls for startup pitches.

if you’re wondering where to eat, the street vendor on the corner serves a bowl of spicy pork noodles that’ll knock your socks off, and the line is always longer than the queue at the city hall.

for deeper stats, peek at these sources:
tripadvisor
yelp
r/tongjin

and a quick map so you don’t get lost in the labyrinth of alleys:


> the city’s vibe is like a sketch that never dries, always in draft mode.
> another overheard line: “if you can handle the humidity, you can handle the hustle.”
> final gossip: “the nightlife here is louder than a printer on full blast, but the sunrise paints the streets in pastel regret.”


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About the author: Sophia Berg

Exploring the intersection of technology and humanity.

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