Kemerovo Chronicles: Surviving the Siberian Freeze
it's colder than my ex's heart out here in Kemerovo. i just checked and it's -12.14°C with a feels-like of -19.14°C right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the kind of cold that makes your nose hairs freeze the second you step outside. i'm here as a touring session drummer, trying to keep my sticks from sticking to my fingers while chasing that perfect Siberian groove.
"You're playing drums in this weather? You're either brave or stupid," a local told me at a bar last night, taking a swig of something that smelled like jet fuel.
Kemerovo isn't exactly on the tourist map, but that's exactly why i'm here. the coal mining history is fascinating, even if the air tastes like it. i stayed at the Hotel Kras, which i heard was "the least depressing option" according to a drunk guy at the train station. he wasn't wrong.
*Pro-tip: if you're coming here, layer like you're preparing for a zombie apocalypse. thermal underwear, wool socks, and a hat that covers your ears completely. i learned this the hard way after my first outdoor soundcheck.
Someone told me that the best borscht in town is at a place called Cafe Ural, but they also warned me the service is slower than a dial-up connection. i went anyway, and yeah, the soup was worth the wait, but bring a book or something.
if you get bored, Novosibirsk and Tomsk are just a short drive away, though "short" in Siberia might mean 4 hours. i haven't made it there yet, too busy trying not to lose fingers to frostbite.
the locals here are tough as nails. i met a guy who said he's been mining coal since he was 16 and still has all his teeth. i'm not sure if that's a compliment or a warning. either way, the resilience here is something else.
i heard that the Kemerovo Regional Museum has some cool Soviet-era artifacts, but i haven't been yet because i've been too busy trying to find a venue that doesn't have icicles hanging from the ceiling. maybe tomorrow.
Random advice:* if you're a musician, bring extra cables. The cold makes everything brittle, and i've already snapped two. also, don't trust the weather app. it lies.
Kemerovo isn't for everyone, but if you're into raw, unfiltered travel, this place will test you. and maybe, just maybe, you'll find something beautiful in the grit. i'm still looking, but hey, that's the journey, right?
Check out more about Kemerovo's history or find a warm place to stay before you come.
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