Kirkuk: Dust, Oil, and a Citadel That's Seen Things
okay, so kirkuk. it’s…a lot. i’m elara, by the way. i’m a freelance photographer, usually chasing light in more predictable places, but a friend of a friend needed someone to document a project here, and honestly, i needed the work. and a change of scenery, even if that scenery is mostly beige.
it’s cold. like, properly cold. i just checked and it’s 9.5 celsius, feels like 5.96, and honestly, i’m bundled up like i’m about to climb a mountain. which, technically, you can do, since it’s right near the zagros mountains. the air is dry, though, really dry. my skin feels like parchment. bring moisturizer, seriously.
the citadel is…well, it’s a citadel. ancient, crumbling, and overlooking everything. it’s the heart of the old city, and you can feel the weight of history there. it’s a bit unsettling, actually. you can see why it’s considered a symbol of the city’s multi-ethnic past, but also why it’s a bit of a sensitive spot. i heard from someone working with the local museum that there’s still a lot of tension between the different communities - kurds, turkmens, arabs, christians…it’s a real mix. it’s a “miniature iraq,” as everyone keeps saying.
finding good light is…challenging. the dust hangs in the air, creating this hazy effect. it’s not bad light, just…difficult. i’ve been trying to capture the textures of the city - the crumbling walls, the faces of the people, the oil derricks in the distance. it’s a strange juxtaposition. you can find some info about the citadel here: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g298568-d567999-Reviews-Kirkuk_Citadel-Kirkuk_Kirkuk_Governorate.html.
food-wise, it’s pretty standard iraqi fare. lots of grilled meats, rice, flatbread. i haven’t found anything particularly unique to kirkuk yet, but i’m still looking. someone told me there’s a great little place near the bazaar that serves amazing kebabs, but i haven’t managed to track it down. yelp isn’t super helpful here, unsurprisingly: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Restaurants&find_loc=Kirkuk%2C+Iraq.
security is…a thing. you definitely need to be aware of your surroundings. i’m traveling with a local fixer, which i highly recommend. it’s not a place to wander around aimlessly, especially not after dark. travel advisories are pretty strict, so do your research before you come. https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/country-information-pages/iraq.html has the latest info from the us state department.
if you get bored, erbil and sulaymaniyah are just a relatively easy drive away, though i haven’t had time to explore them yet. baghdad is further, but accessible by road or rail. it’s a strange place, kirkuk. raw, gritty, and full of contradictions. it’s not a typical tourist destination, and it probably won’t be anytime soon. but it’s…real. and sometimes, that’s enough. i’m exhausted. need coffee. and maybe a stronger wifi signal.
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