Kochi: Rain, Rust, and Really Weird Fish
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm chai. the humidity here is… intense. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 31.63 degrees, feels like 29.46, temp_min 31.63, temp_max 31.63, pressure 1013, humidity 14, sea level 1013, grnd level 974. seriously, my brain feels like a damp sponge. but, like, Kochi is… something. it’s not pretty in a postcard way, you know? it’s got this gritty, almost industrial feel, but with splashes of incredible color and the smell of spices hanging thick in the air.
I landed here after a series of increasingly frantic flight changes - a delayed connection in Dubai, a rogue thunderstorm in Chennai - and honestly, it felt like a blessing. it’s a total sensory overload, which is exactly what i needed. i’m staying in this little guesthouse near Fort Kochi, run by a guy named Raj who mostly communicates through shrugs and offers of cardamom tea. he’s got this collection of old fishing nets hanging everywhere, and they’re covered in rust. beautiful rust, though.
Spent the morning wandering around the Chinese fishing nets - massive wooden structures that are basically giant scoops for hauling in the catch. it’s a spectacle, honestly. loads of guys shouting, pulling ropes, and generally looking like they’re wrestling with the ocean. someone told me that the best time to see them is at sunrise, but i was too busy trying not to spill my coffee. i did check out the Mattancherry Palace, which is basically a spice museum. it was… intense. mountains of saffron, cloves, cinnamon - you name it. i almost choked on the aroma.
Then, i stumbled upon this place called Jack & The Ginger Flower. it’s a tiny restaurant serving up the weirdest seafood i’ve ever encountered. i ordered the ‘Kochi Fish Curry’ and it came with… a whole, uncleaned fish. like, seriously. i had to wrestle with it myself to get it into a manageable form. it was… an experience. i heard that they also serve a dish called ‘Karimeen Pollichathu,’ which is marinated fish wrapped in banana leaves and grilled. i’m adding that to the list for tomorrow.
Speaking of weird, the locals are… interesting. there’s this family who lives next door - the Krishnans - they’re constantly arguing about something, but they always offer you a cup of tea. and there’s this old man who sits on his porch every day, playing a really mournful tune on a sitar. it’s both heartbreaking and strangely beautiful. if you get bored, Thrissur is just a short drive away.
*Gear List (because i always forget stuff):
Rain jacket (obviously)
Bug spray (seriously, it’s a jungle)
Portable charger (my phone is perpetually dying)
Notebook and pen (for capturing the chaos)
A healthy dose of skepticism
* A willingness to eat weird fish
I found this little cafe called Brew & Bites - they make a mean cold brew. check it out: https://www.yelp.com/biz/brew-and-bites-kochi And for the fishing nets, this TripAdvisor page is pretty good: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g298386-d12387339-Reviews-Chinese_Fishing_Nets-Fort_Kochi_Kerala.html. I also saw a local Facebook group for Kochi events - https://www.facebook.com/groups/KochiEvents/.
Honestly, Kochi is just… a mess. a beautiful, chaotic, slightly unsettling mess. and i’m kind of loving it.
You might also be interested in:
- https://topiclo.com/post/afterschool-hustle-in-agege-whats-actually-worth-your-time-and-cash
- https://topiclo.com/post/graffiti-greed-and-27c-sweats-how-phnom-penh-sucked-me-in-when-i-really-didnt-want-to-go
- https://topiclo.com/post/kyoto-chaos-noodles-ghosts-and-seriously-weird-rain
- https://topiclo.com/post/fitness-and-wellness-the-best-gyms-and-yoga-studios-in-ndjamena-3
- https://topiclo.com/post/bogota-living-with-the-apocalypse-in-sleeves-and-slopes