Marseille: Where the Bouillabaisse is Real and the Wind Bites

okay, so. marseille. i just got back and i’m still trying to scrape the salt spray out of my hair. it’s…a lot. like, a lot a lot. not in a bad way, necessarily, but definitely not your postcard-perfect french getaway. i’m a touring session drummer, you know? i’ve seen a million cities, played a million dives, and marseille…it’s got a pulse. a gritty, chaotic, beautiful pulse.

i just checked and it’s 13.89 degrees celsius there right now, with a feels-like of 13.35. the pressure’s at 995 and the humidity is clinging to everything like a damp hug. not exactly beach weather, but hey, it’s france. you can still complain about it in style.

my main mission? finding the real bouillabaisse. not the tourist trap stuff. i spent a solid day wandering around *Vieux Port, dodging scooters and trying to decipher menus written entirely in rapid-fire southern french. it’s a sensory overload, honestly. the smell of fish, the shouts of vendors, the constant hum of…something. i’m not sure what, but it’s there.

“Don’t trust the places with the pictures of the bouillabaisse on the menu,” a very tanned woman with a cigarette dangling from her lips told me. “They’re lying. Go where the locals go. Follow your nose.”

so i did. and i found it. a tiny, unassuming place called Chez Michel. no pictures, just a chalkboard with a handwritten menu. the bouillabaisse? life-changing. seriously. creamy, rich, full of flavor. worth every euro. check out their Yelp page https://www.yelp.com/biz/chez-michel-marseille if you’re brave enough to navigate the French.

and the neighborhoods! i spent an afternoon wandering through Noailles, which is basically a little slice of north africa dropped into the middle of france. spices, textiles, bustling markets…it’s incredible. i even picked up a ridiculously patterned scarf for like, five euros. score! if you get bored, Aix-en-Provence is just a short drive away - way more polished, if that’s your thing.

“Watch your pockets in the metro,” a guy with a handlebar mustache warned me, leaning against a wall. “It’s not as bad as it used to be, but…still.”

so yeah, be aware. but don’t let that scare you off. marseille is raw, it’s real, and it’s got a story to tell. i also heard that the Calanques National Park is stunning, but i didn’t have time to get there this trip. next time, for sure. you can find some good hiking trails on TripAdvisor https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g34623-Activities-Calanques_National_Park_Bouches_du_Rhone_Provence_Alpes_Cote_d_Azur.html.

pro-tip:* learn a few basic french phrases. even just “bonjour” and “merci” will get you far. and don’t be afraid to get lost. that’s where the real discoveries happen. i found a killer little coffee shop (Le Cafe de l'Opera - check it out on Google Maps!) just by wandering down a random side street.

and the people! they’re…characters. in the best possible way. i overheard a heated debate about football (soccer) that lasted a solid hour. i have no idea what they were arguing about, but it was entertaining. i also stumbled upon a local forum https://www.marseille-plus.com/ where people are arguing about everything from parking to the best place to get a pastis. it’s a goldmine of local info.

seriously, go. just…go with an open mind and a strong stomach. and maybe a phrasebook. and definitely try the bouillabaisse. you won’t regret it.

okay, i’m off to find some ibuprofen. all that walking really adds up.

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