running amman like a caffeinated goat on cobblestones
currently nursing blisters the size of small planets because apparently *amman doesn’t believe in flat ground-which they definitely don’t warn you about in those glossy visit jordan pamphlets. just checked my weather app-19 degrees with a sneaky breeze that feels like 17.89... hope you packed layers. humidity’s sitting at 32% which basically means my sweat evaporates before i can properly complain about it. perfect if you’re into that whole ‘desert cliffhanger’ aesthetic.
spent yesterday getting lost near rainbow street after some dude grilling kebabs shouted ‘turn left at the cat!’ (real navigational advice). ended up at this hole-in-wall called hashem restaurant-looks like somebody’s grandma’s pantry turned communal dining room. someone told me their falafel causes spiritual awakenings and honestly? i believe it.
overheard rumors from a guy selling mint lemonade: apparently the roman theater steps are brutal after sunset when the feral cats unionize. try jogging the citadel perimeter at dawn though-stone glow hits different when you’re gasping for oxygen.
if your legs crave more adventure, jerash’s ruins are worth the blisters and madaba’s mosaic floors will murder your calves. heard whispers on the jett bus about salt city having ancestral bakeries that sell cheese pies bigger than your life decisions. pro-stride advice: drink qahwa saada* like it’s gatorade and never trust google maps near the souk.
locals told me three things: 1) uphill is always faster (liars) 2) every alley has a bakery that ‘changed everything’ (proof at habibah sweets) 3) ‘inshallah’ applies to pedestrian right-of-way. currently icing my knees with frozen packs of za’atar.
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