moundou's hidden threads: a vintage scavenger's fever dream
moundou, chad. let that sink in. i came here for the textiles, stayed for the surreal heat. the airport was a breeze, if you call a windswept tarmac with one hangar a breeze. grabbed a taxi that smelled like goat and desperation.
*heat hit me like a wall the second i stepped out. i just checked my weather app and it's 27.96°c but feels like 27.07, humidity 30%-hope you like dry heat that feels like a hair dryer on your neck. it parches your lips and makes your eyeballs feel dusty. i'm sweating but it evaporates before it drips. perfect for preserving old fabrics, they say. the pressure is 1016 hpa, which feels heavy in the air.
the market here is called grand marché. it's a labyrinth of stalls under tarps, with everything from fake designer bags to hand-woven blankets. i'm here for the vintage. someone told me that the real gems are tucked in the back, near the grain sacks. i spent hours digging through piles of cloth, finding pieces with intricate embroidery that tell stories of ceremonies long past. bargaining is a blood sport. start at half price, but smile and show respect. i got a stunning indigo-dyed wrapper for like, 5 bucks. score.
i heard from a local that the best day is sunday, when vendors from surrounding villages bring their best stuff. "if you come on tuesday," he warned, "you'll only see polyester imports." good to know. the grnd_level is 999 hpa? whatever that means. all i know is my skin feels like parchment.
neighbors? if you get bored and crave a bigger city scene, n'djamena is about 400km south. it's a brutal drive on a road that might as well be a suggestion, but worth it for the french bakeries and internet that works sometimes. sarh is closer, like a three-hour drive east, but it's mostly just another dusty town with a worse market. if you're bored, bongor is a two-hour drive east through the bush-supposed to have a smaller market.
reviews are sparse. i checked tripadvisor for moundou [https://www.tripadvisor.com/tourism-g297469-moundou_chad-vacations.html], but most reviews were about the lack of hotels. yelp has nada for chad [https://www.yelp.com/search?cflt=restaurants&find_loc=n%27djamena]. the real scoop is on the chad travel forum [https://www.chadforums.com/threads/moundou-market-tips.12345/] where someone wrote: "bring your own water, and patience. and ignore the guys selling 'antique' swords-they're from last week." i also heard from a backpacker that the sunday market in moundou is a vibe unlike any other.
i've embedded a map below so you can see where i'm marooned. it's rough, but the vibes are unmatched.
i snapped a few pics. this first one is from the textile section, where the colors will make you cry.
and this is a close-up of some embroidery i bought-apparently from the 1970s, but who knows?
and this third one is the street outside the market at dawn
.
i met this old woman named aisha who sells fabrics she's collected for decades. she showed me a cloth with symbols that mean 'protection' in her tribe. i bought it for my sister, who'll probably think i'm crazy for bringing dusty african cloth home. but that's the point, right? finding pieces with soul, not just old.
the food here is simple-millet porridge, spicy fish from the river. i ate at a stall where the cook remembered me from yesterday. he gave me extra chili, knowing i could handle it. that's the kind of hospitality that makes you forget the heat.
i'm writing this with a dying phone battery, sweating onto the keyboard. the sea_level is 1016 hpa? irrelevant, but the stories are real. i'm heading back to the market at dawn-rumor has it a truck from libya arrived with forgotten linens.
the market early morning is a symphony of bargaining chips and roosters crowing. the air smells like spices, sweat, and dust. i'm wearing my lucky hat, the one with the frayed brim, because today i need all the luck. i've been coming here for three days and still haven't mastered the art of not looking like a tourist. i try to mimic the slow shuffle of the locals, but the heat gets in my head.
i found a bolt of fabric that might be from the 1960s, with geometric patterns in faded red. the seller said it was his grandmother's, but i know that's the line for half the stuff here. still, the texture feels authentic. i paid too much, but what's vintage without overpaying?
the pressure of 1016 hpa makes my ears pop sometimes, like when you're on a mountain. but we're at sea level? no, we're in the sahel, so elevation varies. the grnd_level is 999 hpa, which is lower, so maybe we're above sea level? who cares. i'm just trying to find a bargain.
if you ever come, bring a refillable water bottle and a scarf for the dust. the vibes here are raw and real. no fancy cafes, just tea stalls and endless heat*.
i heard a rumor that the french colonial coins are still buried near the old fort. but that's for another trip.
peace out, sleep-deprived and thread-bare.
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