Pago Pago: Humidity, Hibiscus, and a Whole Lotta 'What Was That Noise?'

okay, so. american samoa. who knew? i definitely didn’t expect to be here, honestly. my usual gig - touring with a band - fell through (long story involving a rogue tuba and a very angry venue manager), and i needed… something. a reset. a place where the biggest decision of the day is whether to have mango or papaya for breakfast.

and pago pago delivered. it’s… intense. the air just hangs on you. i just checked and it's a damp blanket clinging to everything, a constant 20.25 degrees. feels like 19.92, which is basically the same, right? the pressure’s steady, the humidity’s a solid 61%, and i’m pretty sure my hair has achieved sentience.

I’m staying in a little guesthouse near the harbor. it’s… rustic. let’s go with rustic. the walls are thin, and i’ve been hearing some interesting conversations next door. like, full-blown family dramas unfolding at 2 AM. it’s a vibe. a chaotic, sleep-deprived vibe.

Speaking of vibes, the locals are amazing. genuinely warm and welcoming. i spent an afternoon wandering around the *market, trying to figure out what half the fruits and vegetables were. ended up buying a bunch of something that looked like a purple starfish. apparently, it’s delicious grilled. i’ll let you know.

“Don’t go near the old lighthouse after dark. Something about it… it just feels wrong.”

That’s something a local warned me about, by the way. over a plate of surprisingly good fish tacos. he was pretty insistent. said his grandfather saw something up there once. spooky stuff. i’m not usually one for ghost stories, but the way he said it… yeah, i’ll probably stick to the beach at night.

I’ve been trying to document everything with my camera, but the humidity is not my friend. condensation everywhere. I'm thinking of investing in a waterproof housing. Anyone have recommendations? Check out some local photography groups on TripAdvisor for tips.

Pro-Tip #1: Bring bug spray. Seriously. Like, industrial-strength bug spray. The mosquitos here are relentless. Pro-Tip #2: Learn a few basic Samoan phrases. It goes a long way. Pro-Tip #3: Don’t be afraid to try the local food. It’s incredible. Pro-Tip #4: Embrace the chaos. This isn’t a place for rigid itineraries and perfectly curated Instagram feeds. Just… go with the flow.

I overheard some drunk advice at a bar last night - apparently, the best snorkeling is off the coast of Tafuna*. Someone said the coral is vibrant and the fish are practically begging to be photographed. I’m planning a trip there tomorrow. I'll post some pictures if my camera survives. You can find some reviews on Yelp.

if you get bored, apia and other parts of samoa are just a short ferry ride away. i’m thinking of hopping over there for a few days. i need to escape the constant hum of the jungle for a bit.

Honestly, it’s been… a lot. A lot of heat, a lot of humidity, a lot of strange noises coming from next door. But also, a lot of beauty, a lot of kindness, and a lot of unexpected adventure. I’m not sure what i was expecting when i booked this trip, but it definitely wasn’t this. And i’m kind of glad it wasn’t.

Check out the local forums on Samoa Talk for more insider tips. And if you’re looking for a place to stay, Booking.com has a few options.

I'm also thinking about checking out the National Park of American Samoa - heard it’s got some amazing hiking trails. Wish me luck (and dry equipment).

Pago Pago: Humidity, Hibiscus, and a Whole Lotta 'What Was That Noise?'

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About the author: Oscar Finch

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