Pros and Cons of Living in Surabaya: An Unbiased Guide (From a Freelance Photographer)
okay, so, surabaya. where do i even start? it's…a lot. seriously, it throws everything at you at once. i’ve been living here for six months now, chasing golden hour and accidentally getting lost in a maze of street food stalls. and honestly, it's been a wild ride. i needed a change of pace after all the same scenery, same clients, same blah. and surabaya promised…well, something.
first off, the light. oh god, the light. it’s this hazy, golden-tinged stuff that makes everything look perpetually dreamy. perfect for shooting portraits, perfect for street photography, perfect for making even the most chaotic scenes look…artistic? i’m just saying. plus, the people are genuinely kind. i’ve had countless strangers offer to help me navigate or just chat about the local scene. it’s a refreshing change from… well, you know.
but it's not all sunshine and smiles, ya know? let's get real. surabaya is intense. the traffic is legendary. like, you could spend an hour just sitting in gridlock. and the air…it's something else. a constant mix of exhaust fumes, street food smoke, and…well, i don’t even know what some of it is. i’ve invested in a really good air purifier for my tiny apartment. which brings me to cost of living. (see the table below; it's rough, but it's the truth).
*Angkringan Culture
Okay, so, let’s talk about the positives. the angkringan. these little carts that pop up everywhere at night. you can get so much delicious food for next to nothing. think grilled meats, rice, noodles…it’s the perfect budget-friendly meal. i'm talking like, $2-$3 USD for a feast. seriously. and the atmosphere! it's chaotic, it’s noisy, it’s full of locals just hanging out. it’s really something. i found a cool little angkringan near Tunjungan Plaza - something a local warned me about being extra crowded on weekends, but totally worth it. check out TripAdvisor's list of angkringan for options.
but here’s the thing: safety. i’m not gonna lie, there are areas where you need to be extra careful. i’ve heard rumors - totally anecdotal, mind you - about petty theft in some of the more crowded areas, especially around the markets. something a local warned me about was always keeping valuables hidden and being aware of your surroundings. the police presence isn't super consistent everywhere, which is definitely something to be mindful of. I always use Yelp to check neighborhood reviews
rent? you’re looking at $200-$400 USD for a decent studio apartment, depending on the location. which, again, brings us to the neighborhoods. central surabaya is buzzing, but it’s also the most expensive and chaotic. then you have areas like Gubeng, which is a bit more laid-back, but still has a good vibe. I personally like the area around Taman Flora because it's slightly quieter, but still accessible. Job market for photographers is… interesting. There are opportunities, definitely, especially if you're willing to hustle and network. But it’s not as straightforward as it is in, say, Jakarta. You’re gonna have to be proactive. If you are a Digital Nomad, you can check Reddit's r/Surabaya for insights from other remote workers.
Cost of Living (Rough Estimates)
| Item | USD (Approx.) | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Rent (Studio) | $200-$400 | Varies by location |
| Food (Daily) | $5-$10 | Angkringan is your friend! |
| Transportation | $2-$5 | Ojek (motorcycle taxis) are super cheap! |
| Utilities | $30-$60 | Electricity can be pricey! |
| Internet | $15-$25 | Reliable and relatively affordable |
| Entertainment | $10-$30 | Depends on your taste! |
| Total (Monthly) | $300-$600* | Roughly. Can be lower if you’re frugal. |
And the weather? it's currently this thick, humid blanket clinging to everything. feels like you're swimming in warm air. but hey, at least the sunsets are spectacular. the humidity makes my camera lens fog up constantly, but i’ve learned to live with it. it’s like a short flight to Bali, but with a much more gritty, urban energy.
So, would i recommend living in Surabaya? yeah, maybe. it’s not for everyone. it’s loud, it’s chaotic, it’s a constant assault on the senses. but it’s also incredibly vibrant, incredibly welcoming, and incredibly…real. the kind of place that gets under your skin. and honestly? that's what i was hoping for.
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