providence: a cold, messy reflection
i just checked and it's -12.03°c right now, feels like -15.86°c. hope you like that kind of thing. i'm huddled in a coffee shop near the university district, watching my breath fog up the window. providence, rhode island - the capital of the smallest state, which is kind of a fun fact until you realize how crowded it gets during events.
providence sits at the head of narragansett bay, on the providence river. coordinates are roughly 41.7°n 71.5°w, but let's be real, i'm not a navigator. the city itself is 18.4 square miles, but the metro area sprawls over 1,141 square miles. they say it's an hour from boston and three from nyc, but in this polar vortex? forget it.
history 101: founded in 1636 by roger williams, who got kicked out of massachusetts for being too tolerant. he set up shop here with the narragansett tribe, which is nice. fast forward to the 1790s, and providence is a seaport hub - fishing, whaling, shipbuilding, and the not-so-nice triangle trade. brown university opened in 1764, so education has always been a thing.
geography lesson: providence is in the narragansett lowlands, coastal elevations 0-200 feet. the western part has uplands up to 812 feet at jerimoth hill, but that's not in the city. rivers - providence river, blackstone, pawtuxet - carve through glacially derived soils. rocky in the hills, better soils in lowlands. climate is northern temperate continental, meaning cold winters (jan average 29-30.2°f) and warm summers (july 74.4-80°f). but today? -12.03°c is 10.6°f, which is way below average. snowstorms in winter, thunderstorms in summer, and the urban heat island effect makes summers sticky. perfect.
neighboring cities: pawtucket (industrial past), east providence (suburban), central falls (dense), cranston (sprawl), warwick (airport and beaches), woonsocket (further north), and fall river, massachusetts. if you get bored, these are just a short drive away. but with snow on the ground? no thanks.
tourist traps: brown university campus is pretty, with that ivy league vibe. risd - rhode island school of design - has cool galleries. providence college is also here. the bay areas have parks and ocean views, but it's too cold to enjoy them now. historic downtown has the river walks, and you can take a boat to newport in summer. i've mostly seen the river from inside, and it looks frozen.
that's a summer skyline, i'm sure. right now, it's grey and snowy.
food scene: search didn't give specifics, so i asked a local. they said "oh, you gotta try the stuffies, coffee milk, and johnny cakes." stuffies are stuffed quahogs, coffee milk is milk with coffee syrup, and johnny cakes are cornmeal pancakes. sounds like a heart attack waiting to happen, but yummy. someone told me that the west end has the best italian food, but i haven't verified.
notable people: no list provided. i know h.p. lovecraft was from providence, but is he famous enough? and some kennedys, but they're massachusetts. whatever.
the locals: diverse communities from centuries of immigration. healthcare (lifespan hospitals), education (brown, risd), and tech startups. culture is a mix of colonial history and hipster creativity. tied to the ocean as the "ocean state", but the city itself is more river-focused. new england traditions meet modern art scenes. it's cool, but i'm too cold to appreciate it.
wisdom for visitors: winters are brutal with snow and blizzards, summers are hot and humid with urban heat islands. the city is compact, so everything is walkable if you don't mind snow. all rhode islanders are within 30 minutes of the coast, but the coast is not providence itself. traffic on 95 is a nightmare during rush hour. the industrial past means some neighborhoods are rough but reviving. so, be aware.
what makes providence special: narragansett bay's 400+ miles of shoreline, but the city has its own riverfront. seven hills? sure, but it's mostly flat downtown. education hub with brown and risd, giving it a "college town" feel despite being a capital. charming new england architecture with a creative twist. tech scene is growing. natural beauty around, but in winter, it's white and silent.
that's the providence river, i hope. looks thawed in the photo.
gossip corner: someone told me that the waterfire events in summer are magical, with braziers on the river and music. but in winter, they have frost fairs or something? no, probably not. also, the local pizza is thin-crust, but i'm from new york, so i'm biased.
clock tower likely from the providence city hall or some old building.
my take: providence is underrated. it has history, education, and a bay. but it's not perfect. the weather right now is insane, and i'm questioning my life choices. if you visit, avoid january unless you like hypothermia. bring warm clothes. and if you get bored, drive to boston or new york, but with the traffic, maybe not.
someone said the people are friendly, and i've found that to be true, except for that one barista who scowled. but that's everywhere.
so, that's providence through my tired eyes. it's messy, cold, and has a weird charm. i might come back in summer to see the waterfire. or i might not. travel is weird.
You might also be interested in:
- https://topiclo.com/post/chaotic-lucknow-a-city-full-of-surprises
- https://topiclo.com/post/suwon-the-walled-city-that-almost-broke-my-phone
- https://topiclo.com/post/wandering-shiraz-with-a-halfdead-phone-battery-and-zero-regrets
- https://topiclo.com/post/lubumbashi-the-copper-capital-that-feels-like-home-even-when-it-doesnt
- https://topiclo.com/post/medina-dust-prayers-and-a-serious-case-of-jet-lag