Long Read

San Juan: Humidity, Rum, and Questionable Street Art (My Kind of Chaos)

@Zara Walsh2/14/2026blog

okay, so. san juan. i’m still peeling sunburn off my nose and trying to remember what sleep feels like, but here we are. i just checked and it's…a thick, wet blanket clinging to everything right now. hope you like that kind of thing. seriously, the humidity is a character in itself. it’s like the city is exhaling constantly.


I’m a touring session drummer, you see. Which means I’m used to weird places, bad coffee, and the constant hum of anxiety. But san juan…san juan is different. It’s got this…pulse. A chaotic, vibrant pulse. I was only there for a few days, bouncing between gigs and trying to find decent plantains, but it left a mark.


First things first: old san juan is gorgeous. Like, ridiculously gorgeous. The cobblestone streets, the colorful buildings…it’s postcard perfect. But don’t get lulled into a tourist trap coma. Wander off the main drag. Get lost. That’s where the real san juan is. I stumbled upon this tiny little courtyard with a guy selling the most incredible empanadas. Seriously, find him. He doesn’t have a name, just a smile and a serious talent for pastry.

I spent a good chunk of time just…observing. People playing dominoes in the shade, kids kicking a soccer ball down the street, the constant chatter of spanish swirling around me. It’s a sensory overload in the best possible way. I even tried to sketch some of the street art - which, let’s be honest, is a mixed bag. Some of it is genuinely brilliant, some of it looks like a toddler got loose with a can of spray paint. But it’s all part of the vibe, right?


Speaking of vibes, the nightlife is…intense. I ended up in this bar in la placita de los deportes - don’t ask how - and the music was deafening, the rum was flowing freely, and everyone was dancing like nobody was watching. I’m pretty sure I lost a shoe at some point. Someone told me that the best salsa clubs are in rio piedras, but honestly, i was happy where i was. Check out some reviews on TripAdvisor https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g666873-San_Juan_Puerto_Rico.html if you're looking for recommendations.

I overheard some drunk advice - seriously, it was a whole conversation - about avoiding certain areas after dark. Apparently, some neighborhoods aren’t as…welcoming. I didn’t have any issues, but it’s always good to be aware. Yelp https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=bars&find_loc=San+Juan,+PR has some decent reviews, but take them with a grain of salt.


Oh, and the food. Don’t even get me started on the food. Mofongo, tostones, arroz con gandules…it’s all incredible. I spent way too much money on plantains. I’m pretty sure i’m part plantain now. If you get bored, ponce and mayagüez are just a short drive away - totally different vibes, worth checking out if you have the time. I found a great little local board with recommendations https://www.puertorico-guide.com/.

I also heard that the beaches are amazing, but i didn’t get a chance to hit them up. Next time, for sure. Next time, i’m bringing a bigger suitcase for plantains and a stronger sunscreen. And maybe a sleep mask. Because honestly, the roosters in san juan are relentless.

It’s a city that gets under your skin. A little rough around the edges, a little chaotic, a little…sweaty. But in the best possible way. Go. Experience it. Just…bring a towel.


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About the author: Zara Walsh

Loves data, hates clutter.

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