San Juan: Humidity, Rum, and Questionable Street Art (My Kind of Chaos)
okay, so. san juan. i’m still peeling sunburn off my nose and trying to remember what sleep feels like, but here we are. i just checked and it's…a thick, wet blanket clinging to everything right now. hope you like that kind of thing. seriously, the humidity is a character in itself. it’s like the city is exhaling constantly.
I’m a touring session drummer, you see. Which means I’m used to weird places, bad coffee, and the constant hum of anxiety. But san juan…san juan is different. It’s got this…pulse. A chaotic, vibrant pulse. I was only there for a few days, bouncing between gigs and trying to find decent plantains, but it left a mark.
First things first: old san juan is gorgeous. Like, ridiculously gorgeous. The cobblestone streets, the colorful buildings…it’s postcard perfect. But don’t get lulled into a tourist trap coma. Wander off the main drag. Get lost. That’s where the real san juan is. I stumbled upon this tiny little courtyard with a guy selling the most incredible empanadas. Seriously, find him. He doesn’t have a name, just a smile and a serious talent for pastry.
I spent a good chunk of time just…observing. People playing dominoes in the shade, kids kicking a soccer ball down the street, the constant chatter of spanish swirling around me. It’s a sensory overload in the best possible way. I even tried to sketch some of the street art - which, let’s be honest, is a mixed bag. Some of it is genuinely brilliant, some of it looks like a toddler got loose with a can of spray paint. But it’s all part of the vibe, right?
Speaking of vibes, the nightlife is…intense. I ended up in this bar in la placita de los deportes - don’t ask how - and the music was deafening, the rum was flowing freely, and everyone was dancing like nobody was watching. I’m pretty sure I lost a shoe at some point. Someone told me that the best salsa clubs are in rio piedras, but honestly, i was happy where i was. Check out some reviews on TripAdvisor https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g666873-San_Juan_Puerto_Rico.html if you're looking for recommendations.
I overheard some drunk advice - seriously, it was a whole conversation - about avoiding certain areas after dark. Apparently, some neighborhoods aren’t as…welcoming. I didn’t have any issues, but it’s always good to be aware. Yelp https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=bars&find_loc=San+Juan,+PR has some decent reviews, but take them with a grain of salt.
Oh, and the food. Don’t even get me started on the food. Mofongo, tostones, arroz con gandules…it’s all incredible. I spent way too much money on plantains. I’m pretty sure i’m part plantain now. If you get bored, ponce and mayagüez are just a short drive away - totally different vibes, worth checking out if you have the time. I found a great little local board with recommendations https://www.puertorico-guide.com/.
I also heard that the beaches are amazing, but i didn’t get a chance to hit them up. Next time, for sure. Next time, i’m bringing a bigger suitcase for plantains and a stronger sunscreen. And maybe a sleep mask. Because honestly, the roosters in san juan are relentless.
It’s a city that gets under your skin. A little rough around the edges, a little chaotic, a little…sweaty. But in the best possible way. Go. Experience it. Just…bring a towel.
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