shopping in hwasu-dong: where the locals actually shop

so i landed in hwasu-dong thinking i'd find another cookie-cutter shopping scene. nope. this place is weird in the best way. like, i walked into what looked like a convenience store and walked out with handmade pottery and a bag of kimchi-flavored popcorn. true story.

A street with a mountain in the background

first off, the weather here is doing that thing where it's sunny one minute and drizzling the next. pack an umbrella or embrace the chaos. also, if you're coming from seoul, it's like a 40-minute subway ride. incheon's not far either if you're into coastal vibes.

the markets

samil traditional market

this is where the magic happens. i'm talking fresh seafood that's still moving, grandma's secret banchan recipes, and socks for like $1 a pair. seriously, i bought three pairs just because. the ajummas here will yell at you in the best way possible. one lady tried to feed me raw octopus and i nearly died of both fear and delight.

check samil market on tripadvisor

hwasu station underground shopping

think of it as a labyrinth of tiny shops selling everything from phone cases to fermented soybean paste. it's chaotic, it's crowded, and it's perfect if you're into that "i found this weird thing and now it's my prized possession" energy.

the malls

emart traders

okay, this is technically a supermarket, but hear me out. they've got imported snacks, a food court with jajangmyeon that slaps, and home goods that make ikea look basic. plus, it's air-conditioned, which is a godsend in summer.

daelim hobby shop

not a mall, but close enough. if you're into model kits, figurines, or just want to see a bunch of dudes in their 30s nerding out over gundam, this is your spot. i bought a tiny ceramic cat that now sits on my desk judging me.

overheard gossip & drunk advice

"don't buy the kimchi from the first stall you see. go deeper. the third stall on the left has the good stuff." - random ajumma, probably

"the best time to shop is right before closing. they'll practically give you stuff for free." - dude at the pojangmacha

cost of living (aka why i'm broke)

rent here is surprisingly chill. a one-bedroom in the city center? about $600/month. utilities? another $100 if you're running the ac 24/7 like me. groceries are cheap if you shop at the market, but if you're buying imported cheese, good luck.

Expense	Cost (KRW)
Rent (1br)	800,000
Utilities	120,000
Market Groceries	150,000/month
Eating Out	8,000-15,000/meal

final thoughts

hwasu-dong isn't trying to be seoul or busan. it's just doing its own thing, and i respect that. if you're into authentic vibes, weird finds, and food that'll make you cry (in a good way), come here. just don't expect luxury malls with indoor ski slopes. this is a place where the shopping is messy, the people are real, and the kimchi is life-changing.

now go explore hwasu-dong on yelp