São Paulo: Concrete Jungles and Pastel Dreams (Don't @ Me)

okay, so. São Paulo. Where do I even begin? I’m Elara, by the way, and I’m a touring session drummer - which means I’m usually hauling gear and living out of a suitcase, but this time, I was stuck here for a gig. A long gig. And honestly? It kinda wormed its way into my brain.

I just checked and it's…a humid blanket clinging to everything. Like, seriously, you walk out and immediately feel like you’re wrapped in a damp towel. The temperature’s hovering around twenty-six degrees, feels like twenty-six point two-nine, and the pressure’s…well, I don’t know what that means, but apparently it’s something. The humidity is a solid seventy-three percent. Fun.

My hotel was in Vila Madalena, which, if you’re looking for something a little…gritty, a little artistic, a little loud, is the place to be. Seriously, the street art alone is worth the trip. I spent a good afternoon just wandering around, snapping photos (more on that later, because I’m a photographer too, obviously). You can find some amazing murals on Rua Augusta - check out some photos on TripAdvisor https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g301743-Activities-Sao_Paulo_State.html.

Cyclist rides a bike on a street at night.

I’m gonna be real with you, São Paulo is massive. Like, sprawling. If you get bored, Campinas and Santos are just a short drive away. Don't even think about trying to see it all in a week. It’s impossible. Embrace the chaos. Get lost. That’s where the good stuff happens.

Speaking of good stuff…the food. Oh my god, the food. I ate so much pastel. Seriously, I think I’m part pastel now. And the coxinha? Don’t even get me started. I found this little place near my hotel, Bar do Estadão, that apparently has the best coxinha in the city. Someone told me that it’s a total tourist trap, but I didn’t care. It was amazing. Check out the Yelp reviews https://www.yelp.com/biz/bar-do-estadao-sao-paulo.

“Don’t trust anyone who says they’re not obsessed with Brigadeiro. It’s a lie.” - overheard at a cafe in Pinheiros.

I did try to hit up a few of the “must-see” spots, you know, the MASP, Ibirapuera Park…they were fine. Pretty standard. But honestly, the best parts of São Paulo are the unexpected moments. Like stumbling upon a tiny, hole-in-the-wall bar with live samba music, or getting completely lost in the Liberdade district (the Japanese neighborhood - seriously, the food there is incredible).

Street food vendor sells food on a street.

I also spent a ridiculous amount of time browsing vintage shops. I’m a sucker for a good find. There’s this place in Pinheiros called ComePolvo that’s supposed to be amazing. I didn’t make it there, but I did find a killer leather jacket in a tiny shop on Rua dos Pinheiros. I’m obsessed. You can find some local boards with recommendations https://www.sãopauloguide.com/vintage-shops-sao-paulo/.

“The traffic is a living organism. Just accept it.” - a very tired taxi driver.

Okay, quick gear list for anyone else heading this way:

Bug spray: Seriously. The mosquitoes are relentless.
*Comfortable shoes: You’ll be doing a lot of walking.
*A good map (or offline GPS): Getting lost is part of the fun, but not when you’re trying to find your way back to your hotel at midnight.
*A phrasebook: While a lot of people speak English, knowing a few basic Portuguese phrases will go a long way.
*Patience:* São Paulo moves at its own pace. Just relax and go with the flow.

I heard that the nightlife in Vila Olímpia is insane, but I was too tired to check it out. Maybe next time. I’m already thinking about going back. It’s a city that gets under your skin, you know? A little chaotic, a little overwhelming, but ultimately…pretty amazing.

Oh! And one last thing. Someone warned me about pickpockets in the metro. Keep your belongings close, okay?

São Paulo: Concrete Jungles and Pastel Dreams (Don't @ Me)

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About the author: Hugo Barrett

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