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the real cost of utilities and bills in salvador (i'm drowning in debt)

@Jasper Reed2/7/2026blog

so i've been living in salvador for the past year, and i'm still trying to figure out how the hell i'm supposed to pay these damn bills. let's be real: the cost of utilities here will make you cry into your arroz com feijão. i'm a broke college student at ufba, sharing a cramped apartment in the graça neighborhood with two other dudes. my budget is tighter than my skinny jeans, and every month the bills roll in like a bad samba beat. if you're reading this, you're probably thinking "where the hell is graça?" it's a middle-class area near the beach, not too touristy but still expensive. here, take a look at the map to get oriented:

yeah, that's salvador all right. now, about those bills... i took these pics last week to remind myself why i'm suffering through this humidity:

okay, back to reality. rent first: we pay 1,800 reais a month for a three-bedroom shotgun apartment that's basically falling apart. the landlord says it's "historic charm" but i think he means "historic mold". we're lucky because we're not in the super touristy pelourinho where rent skyrockets. but still, 1,800 is a lot when you're making maybe 1,200 a month from part-time waitressing. oh, and we have to pay condominio fees of another 300 reais because the building has a 24-hour doorman (who just sleeps and watches soccer). that's 2,100 gone before we even turn on a light. electricity: coelba is the provider. last month our bill was 450 reais. we barely use the air conditioner because it's so expensive, but the heat is unbearable. average among students is 300-400. i read on r/salvador that some people get crazy high bills because of estimated readings. and there's a rumor they add a "fuel adjustment" fee that changes every month. > "i heard from a neighbor that the electricity company randomly doubles the bill for apartments with more than two people. they call it the 'roommate tax'." water: we pay about 80 reais a month for two of us (the third guy showers forever). but i've seen complaints on Yelp about water bills being high too, but maybe that's for bigger places. internet: vivo fibra ótica, 150 reais for 300 mbps, but it drops when it rains. we tried to switch but there's a monopoly. some students use internet cafes, but that's another cost. gas: butane tank, 120 reais, lasts about a month and a half. trash: included in condominio but sometimes extra. so total utilities (electricity, water, internet, gas, condo) average around 800-1000 reais per person if split three ways. but rent is the killer. we've tried everything: unplugging everything at night, using only one lamp, taking cold showers (which is actually fine in this heat), and even doing laundry by hand to save on the electric washing machine. but the bill barely budges. i'm convinced there's a ghost in the meter. maybe i should become a ghost hunter? (kidding). but seriously, i've seen people on local forums say that if you request a new meter, they sometimes come and replace it, and the next bill drops dramatically. but good luck getting someone to answer the phone at coelba. the wait times are longer than the line at the bank on payday. i know some students live in cheaper areas like pau da lima or itapuã, where rent can be as low as 800 reais for a room. but then you're commuting two hours each way, and the bus fare adds up. plus those neighborhoods can be less safe. i've considered it, but i'd rather spend on safety. > "a friend of a friend who works at the city hall told me that the water company, embasa, has been installing smart meters that actually charge based on usage, but most old buildings still have the old ones that just estimate. so we might be paying for water we don't use. great." safety: salvador has a reputation for being dangerous, and it's not exaggerated. i've been mugged twice in the last six months, both times in broad daylight near the university. the police rarely respond. some neighborhoods are safer (like barra or zona sul), but rent is higher. you end up paying for safety through higher rent or transportation costs (like uber at night). that's another 200-300 reais a month. i tried applying for a scholarship, but the competition is fierce. i ended up tutoring high school kids in math, which pays 30 reais an hour, but the hours are limited. the weather: it's hot and humid like a sauna that never ends. right now it's summer, so it's even worse. we can't afford ac, so we use fans and suffer. the upside: beaches are a short bus ride away. and if you want a change, you can hop on a short flight to lençóis or morro de são paulo. it's a trade-off. the rain season is insane: one minute it's sunny, the next you're drenched. and when it rains, the streets flood, and the internet goes down. it's like living in a disaster movie. > "i overheard a tourist saying that the cost of living in salvador is cheap compared to europe, but that's only if you earn dollars. for locals, it's a constant struggle." salvador is a gateway to some of the most beautiful places in bahia. you can take a short ferry to itaparica, or drive an hour to the coconut coast. it's a blessing and a curse: you want to explore, but you're broke. i guess the point is: utilities here are a headache. you can try to cut usage, but the base fees are steep, and the companies seem to thrive on confusion. i wish someone had told me before moving here that i'd spend half my time arguing with customer service over a 10 real discrepancy. if you're a student thinking about moving, check out r/salvador for tips on cheap housing and utility hacks. also, look at TripAdvisor for free activities to keep your sanity. and maybe compare costs on Numbeo to set a realistic budget. finally, read Yelp for affordable eats so you can still have a social life. anyway, i'm trying to save by moving to a cheaper place next semester, but the commute will kill my study time. it's a never-ending cycle. maybe one day i'll graduate and get a real job and actually pay my bills without panic attacks. until then, i'll be here, under my fan, calculating how many cups of rice i need to eat to offset that 450 reais electricity bill. peace out.

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About the author: Jasper Reed

Observer of trends, culture, and human behavior.

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