tokyo street art scavenger hunt (and how not to freeze your ass off)

so i flew into tokyo with a backpack full of spray cans and zero plan, just like always. the second i stepped out of the station, the air hit me like a damp sock - 2.5 degrees celsius but feels like -1.86? what even is that. i just checked the weather app and it's this bizarre chill that seeps into your bones, hope you like that kind of thing. humidity's at 84%, so everything feels sticky and cold simultaneously. my gloves were soaked in an hour.

first stop: *shinjuku. the signs here are insane, all neon and kanji. i saw this one building with a sign that looked like a dragon eating its tail - total trip.

yeah, that's the one. i was trying to sketch it for a piece, but my hands were too numb.

overheard at a 7-eleven while buying a hot coffee: someone told me that the best ghost spots are in the back alleys of golden gai, but beware - the old guy who runs the bar might yell at you for even looking like you're tagging. drunk advice from a salaryman, probably true. i went there later and nearly got kicked out by a bouncer who looked like he wrestles bears for fun.

if you need a break from the concrete, yokohama's just a short train ride away, like 30 minutes on the jr line. more space, less crowded, and the harbor has cool murals. i heard that some of the best graffiti in the kanto region is actually in yokohama's abandoned warehouses.

okay, map time:

- that's roughly where i've been hitting. not exact, cops read blogs too, ha. but it gives you an idea. i've been mostly in the eastern parts, avoiding the tourist traps.

there's this creepy statue near ueno park - gray concrete, looks like it's judging your life choices.

i was like, dude, even the statues are harsh here. i tagged the base once, but it got covered in a day with some corporate ad. so much for rebellion.

reviews on tripadvisor are full of tourists saying "vibrant" and "heart of" - avoid that crap. real talk: i heard that the train lines at rush hour are a death wish for anyone carrying cans. leave them at the spot, come back later. i learned that after getting stuck in a packed train with paint fumes leaking. not fun.

yelp says the best ramen is at a place called "ichiran" but that's a chain. for real street cred, find the basement spots in ebisu. no signs, just a door with a buzzer. i heard from a local that the owner used to be a punk rocker and only lets in if you know the password. i said "graffiti lives" and he let me in. free tonkotsu and a wall to paint.

i met this local artist who warned me about the police patrols around shibuya crossing - they have cameras everywhere. so i switched to early morning missions. sunrise over shibuya is actually kinda beautiful, all pink and gray, before the crowds hit. but you have to be quick before the street cleaners come.

another rumor: the abandoned factories in kawasaki are prime for large pieces, but the freight trains are loud as hell.

bring earplugs, not just for the noise but to ignore the hobos. one guy offered me a joint and then tried to sell me "authentic samurai swords". sketchy but memorable.

oh, and humidity 84% means your paint takes forever to dry. i learned that the hard way - smudges everywhere. pro tip: use fast-drying caps, but good luck finding them in japan. maybe order online from montana or ironlak. i had to fake a signature on a delivery for my caps. sorry not sorry.

external links: check out this forum for tokyo street art spots: https://www.tokyostreetartforums.com. also, yelp has a list of cheap hostels: https://www.yelp.com/search?cflt=hostels&find_loc=tokyo. tripadvisor's got tours, but screw that, explore yourself: https://www.tripadvisor.com/tourism-g298191-tokyo_tokyo_prefecture_japan-vacations.html. and this local blog: https://www.tokyoartscenes.com has personal stories from artists on the run.

i've been here three days and i've only got two decent pieces up. it's a grind. but the vibe? insane. every corner is a canvas, every alley a gallery. the locals mostly ignore you, which is cool, but sometimes they watch with curiosity.

someone told me that in harajuku, the fashion kids will pose for you if you ask, but don't touch their outfits. they're serious about that. i got a great photo op with a lolita girl who giggled and said "ka-waii" - worth the cold.

last thing: the sea level* pressure thing - whatever, but it feels heavy in the chest. maybe that's just the smog or the stress of almost getting caught. but it adds to the atmosphere, i guess.

anyway, i'm off to find more walls. if you come to tokyo, bring warm clothes, leave the stereotypes at home, and tag responsibly. or don't, i'm not your mom. but seriously, respect the spots and the locals.

peace out.

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