Asunción: Humidity, Guava Juice, and a Whole Lot of 'Wait, What?'

okay, so asunción. paraguay. didn't exactly top my "places i'll end up" list, but here we are. i'm currently fueled by questionable coffee and the sheer bewilderment of it all. i just checked and it's…like wearing a warm, damp blanket all the time, which, honestly, isn't the worst if you're into that sort of thing. the air is thick enough to chew, registering at 25.73°C, but feels like 26.55°C - a sneaky little temperature bump. pressure's holding steady at 1015, humidity's a solid 84%, and the ground level feels like 1003. basically, bring a fan. and maybe a dehumidifier.

i'm here scouting locations for a friend's indie film - think gritty realism meets tropical confusion. he wants "authenticity," which, in asunción, seems to be the default setting. the *streets are a kaleidoscope of crumbling colonial architecture and surprisingly modern storefronts. it's like time forgot to send a memo.

A bee collects nectar from a small yellow flower.

i spent yesterday wandering around the Mercado 4, which is…an experience. sensory overload doesn't even begin to cover it. mountains of fruit i've never seen before, the smell of grilling meat, and a constant chorus of vendors yelling prices. someone told me to always haggle, but i'm terrible at it. i ended up paying way too much for a guava juice, but it was worth it. seriously, the guava juice here is on another level. you can find more info about the market here: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g297988-d669999-Reviews-Mercado_4-Asuncion_Central_Department.html.

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"apparently, the best empanadas are from this tiny stall run by a woman named doña elena. but you have to get there before noon, or they're gone." - overheard from two guys arguing over a map.
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the neighbors here are…loud. in a good way, mostly. lots of music spilling out of open windows, kids playing in the parks, and the constant hum of motorbikes. if you get restless, Encarnación is just a short bus ride away, and Ciudad del Este is a bit further, but worth a visit if you're into…well, let's just say interesting shopping. https://www.lonelyplanet.com/paraguay/asuncion has some good info on day trips.

i tried to find a decent co-working space, but it's not really a thing here. ended up working from a cafe that mostly sells pastries. the wifi is spotty, but the medialunas are amazing. i heard that the cafe 'Soleil' has better wifi, but it's apparently always packed with students. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Cafes&find_loc=Asunción%2C+Paraguay might have some more options.

my friend keeps sending me links to local forums about the best places to find vintage clothes. apparently, there's a thriving scene, but you have to know where to look. i'm hoping to stumble upon some hidden gems. i've also been warned about pickpockets, so i'm keeping my valuables close. someone said that the area around the bus terminal* is particularly dodgy after dark.

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"don't trust anyone who offers you a 'special price' on anything. it's always a scam." - a very stern-looking woman at the hotel reception.
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honestly, asunción is throwing me for a loop. it's chaotic, unpredictable, and utterly fascinating. it's not a place you come to for polished tourist experiences. it's a place you come to get lost, to embrace the weirdness, and to drink a lot of guava juice. and maybe, just maybe, to find a really good empanada. check out this local board for more tips: https://www.expat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=389188.

Asunción: Humidity, Guava Juice, and a Whole Lot of 'Wait, What?'

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About the author: Lucas Grant

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