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Istanbul's Damp Embrace: A Drummer's Detour (and a Whole Lot of Fog)

@Leo Carter2/13/2026blog

okay, so. istanbul. i wasn’t supposed to be in istanbul. touring with the band fell through - something about a rogue badger and a cancelled festival in Lithuania, don’t ask - and i needed somewhere, anywhere, to kill a week before figuring out my next gig. booked a flight on a whim, landed, and… well, it’s been a trip. a damp, foggy, slightly chaotic trip.


I just checked and it’s… a persistent drizzle, clinging to everything like a lovesick ghost. the air is thick, heavy, smells faintly of the sea and something vaguely floral, maybe jasmine? it’s not exactly sunshine and cocktails weather, let’s be honest. the feels-like temperature is hovering around ten degrees, and the humidity is… intense. like, you could cut it with a drumstick.

I’m staying in a tiny apartment in *Karaköy, which is perfect. it’s got this amazing energy, all cobbled streets and tiny cafes spilling out onto the sidewalks. the neighbors are… interesting. a gaggle of elderly women who seem to spend their days arguing about something intensely important (probably tea, knowing turkish culture), and a guy who plays the oud at all hours. it’s a vibe. if you get bored, Bursa and Edirne are just a short ferry ride away - both places I’m planning to check out soon.

Istanbul street scene


I’ve been mostly just wandering, soaking it all in. the Grand Bazaar is… overwhelming, obviously. a sensory assault of carpets, spices, and aggressively friendly vendors. I managed to haggle for a ridiculously ornate tea set - probably overpaid, but who cares? it’ll look great on my shelf back home. I’m thinking of posting a picture of it on my Instagram later.

Someone told me that the Süleymaniye Mosque is a must-see, and they were right. it’s absolutely breathtaking. the scale of it is just… humbling. I spent a good hour just sitting there, listening to the call to prayer. it’s a sound that just gets under your skin, you know?

Suleymaniye Mosque


Food-wise, i’ve been living on simit (sesame bread rings) and döner. seriously, döner is a gift to humanity. I found this amazing little place near my apartment - Dönerci Şahin Usta - the guy there makes the best döner i’ve ever had. I overheard a couple of tourists complaining that it was “too greasy,” but honestly, that’s part of the charm. Check it out on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/biz/d%C3%B6nerci-%C5%9Fahin-usta-istanbul.

I’m trying to find some decent drumming gigs here, but it’s proving tricky. most of the bars seem to want traditional turkish music, which… isn’t really my thing. I did see a flyer for a jam session at a place called Nardis Jazz Club - might check that out tomorrow. https://nardisjazzclub.com/en/.

Istanbul cafe


I heard that the Basilica Cistern is super touristy, but also kind of magical. Apparently, the Medusa heads are creepy as hell. I’m adding that to the list. Also, someone else warned me about pickpockets in the more crowded areas - so, you know, keep an eye on your stuff.

Honestly, istanbul is just… different. it’s not like any place i’ve ever been. it’s chaotic, it’s beautiful, it’s damp, and it’s got this incredible energy that just pulls you in. i’m not sure how long i’ll stay, but for now, i’m just going to keep wandering and soaking it all in. Maybe i’ll even learn a few turkish phrases.

Oh, and if you’re looking for vintage clothes, apparently Beyoğlu* is the place to go. I haven’t had a chance to check it out yet, but i’ve heard good things. TripAdvisor has some recommendations: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g294125-Activities-Beyoglu_Istanbul.html.

Right, i’m off to find some more döner. Wish me luck.

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About the author: Leo Carter

Connecting dots that most people don't even see.

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