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Istanbul's Grey Days & the Best Börek (Probably)

@David Vance2/13/2026blog

okay, so. istanbul. right? everyone raves. turquoise waters, bustling bazaars, history oozing from every cracked tile. and it is all that. but it’s also…grey. like, seriously grey. i just checked and it's drizzling a persistent, melancholic sort of rain there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the kind that soaks you through your vintage corduroys before you even realize it’s happening.


I’m a freelance photographer, you see, and I was chasing light. specifically, that golden hour glow everyone talks about. found mostly shadows and damp cobblestones. Still, managed to get some decent shots. The light does exist, you just have to hunt for it. Like a really good döner kebab at 3 AM.

Istanbul street scene

Istanbul architecture

Istanbul cafe


I’m basing myself in Beyoğlu, which is… intense. A constant hum of scooters, construction, and people arguing about something. I overheard someone - looked like a retired opera singer, honestly - complaining about the new cafe that opened up down the street. Apparently, they’re playing electronic music during tea time. The horror! I’m staying in a tiny apartment through Airbnb, it’s got a view of a brick wall, but the landlady makes incredible Turkish coffee. Seriously, worth the price of admission alone. Check out some apartments here: https://www.airbnb.com/s/Istanbul--Turkey/homes

Speaking of food, let’s talk börek. I’ve eaten my weight in it. Cheese, spinach, meat… I’m pretty sure I’m 50% phyllo dough at this point. Someone told me that the best börek in the entire city is at a tiny place near Taksim Square. It’s called… well, I can’t remember the name. It’s just a hole-in-the-wall with a grumpy-looking man behind the counter. But apparently, it’s legendary. I’ll try to find it again. Yelp says it's worth the hunt: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=b%C3%B6rek&find_loc=Istanbul,+Turkey

I’ve been wandering around a lot, trying to soak it all in. The Hagia Sophia is… overwhelming. In a good way. The Blue Mosque is beautiful, obviously. But honestly, I’ve been spending most of my time getting lost in the side streets, stumbling upon hidden courtyards and tiny antique shops. Found a gorgeous vintage scarf for like, five lira. Score! If you're into that sort of thing, check out this guide to vintage shopping in Istanbul: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g294074-d1187883-Reviews-Vintage_Istanbul-Istanbul_Istanbul_Province.html

I’m also trying to learn a few Turkish phrases. “Merhaba” is easy. “Teşekkür ederim” is… a bit trickier. I mostly just end up smiling and pointing. Which seems to work surprisingly well.

If you get bored, Bursa and Edirne are just a short drive away. Heard that Bursa has amazing peach pies. I’m adding that to the list.

The weather, as I mentioned, is… damp. The temperature is hovering around 13.49 degrees Celsius, feels like 12.64. Pressure is 990, humidity is 67%. Ground level pressure is 907. Not exactly beach weather. But hey, it’s atmospheric, right?

One thing a local warned me about: don’t trust the taxi drivers. Apparently, they’re notorious for taking the long way around. Use the metro whenever possible. It’s cheap and efficient. And you get to people-watch. Which is always a bonus.

I’m off to find that legendary börek. Wish me luck. And maybe send some sunshine.

Oh, and one last thing. I saw a cat wearing a tiny hat. I’m not kidding.

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About the author: David Vance

Writing is my way of listening.

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