Long Read

just another day in 'paradise'

@Rowan Burke2/4/2026blog
just another day in 'paradise'

so i ended up in hangzhou. yeah, that paradise on earth everyone talks about. after traveling for what feels like forever, my feet are screaming and my brain is just... done. but here i am, in this city that supposedly has it all.

first things first, i just checked and it's... 13.95°C outside there right now, with humidity at 57%. feels like 12.89°C though, so hope you like that kind of thing. it's not exactly beach weather, but it's not freezing either. the locals seem to think this is perfect, but i'm from somewhere where we actually have seasons, so whatever.


hangzhou is huge, like really huge. 16,596 km² they say, which is basically impossible to explore in a week. it's got hills, water, rivers, canals, lakes, and the sea all mixed together in what they call a "harmonious" blend. i call it chaotic. but hey, that's the vibe here, right?

A large body of water with a city in the background


everyone's talking about west lake, this supposedly iconic freshwater lake divided by causeways with temples, pagodas, gardens, and islands. i went there, and yeah, it's pretty. but it's also crowded with tourists taking the same exact photos from the same exact spots. the locals call it "paradise," but after a full day of navigating through crowds, my idea of paradise involves a quiet room and a bed.

lingyin temple is another big deal, one of china's most famous buddhist temples northwest of west lake. it's got these caves with ancient carvings, which are impressive until you realize you can't really see them properly because of all the people. someone told me that the monks there are getting tired of the constant stream of visitors, but hey, that's what happens when your city is a top national tourism destination.

a large body of water surrounded by trees


hangzhou is also known for its silk and tea. they call it the "home of silk" and "tea capital." i tried some local tea, and it's good, i guess. but i'm not a tea connoisseur, so it's just tea to me. the silk is nice, though a bit pricey. someone told me that the real silk is produced in the countryside around hangzhou, not in the city itself, but the city gets all the credit. typical, right?

the city's got about 9 million people, which is way too many in my opinion. the urban areas have around 2-3 million, but that's still a lot of people in one place. and they're all trying to get somewhere at the same time. traffic here is no joke. if you get bored, shanghai, ningbo, nanjing, xuanzhou in anhui province, and nanchang in jiangxi province are just a short drive away. i haven't tried it myself, but locals say it's easier to escape the city than to navigate through it.

orange and black gazebo scenery


hangzhou's also got this river called qiantang, famous for its tidal bores. i saw it once, and it's impressive, but also a bit terrifying if you're standing too close. the water just comes rushing in like a wall. someone told me that people sometimes get swept away by it, so you know, be careful.

then there's qiandao lake, this massive reservoir used for tourism, power, and more. it's divided into five scenic areas, which sounds nice until you realize that means there are five times the number of tourists. i skipped it, honestly. my feet were already complaining enough.

the food here is supposedly amazing, known as the "town of fish and rice." i've had some fish dishes, and they're good, but nothing that made me go "wow." maybe i'm just tired. or maybe my standards are too high after all these travels.

hangzhou's been around for over 1,000 years, which is impressive. it was the capital during the southern song dynasty and has all these historical sites. but honestly, after seeing so many historical cities in china, they all start to blend together. it's beautiful, sure, but it's also... a lot.

i'm staying here for another few days, then moving on. i've seen enough temples and lakes for one lifetime. if you're planning to visit, bring good walking shoes, patience for crowds, and maybe an umbrella. the weather can be unpredictable, and the city is huge. also, someone told me that the best times to visit west lake are early morning or late evening when most tourists are elsewhere. wise words, i guess.

that's all i've got for now. i'm going to find a quiet corner and maybe some actual food. hangzhou's nice, but it's not exactly my paradise. maybe i'm just tired.


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About the author: Rowan Burke

Finding joy in the process of discovery.

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