Tabriz: A Whirlwind of Carpets, Earthquakes, and Yogurt Soup
ugh, okay, so i'm finally sitting down to write about tabriz. it’s been a… lot. a lot of impressions, a lot of walking, and a lot of trying to decipher the local dialect, which i’m pretty sure is just a more melodic form of 'what?' i landed there a few days ago, and honestly, i'm still processing it all.
first off, the weather. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it's surprisingly chilly, even for late spring. the report says -1.32°C, feels like -4.07°C. not exactly beach weather, but hey, that's part of the charm, right? apparently, winters are really harsh - think snow and fog. and summers? scorching. i'm guessing 41°C is no joke. i'm trying to embrace it, wearing layers and drinking like a camel.
tabriz itself is a crazy mix. it’s huge, you know? one of the biggest cities in iran. everyone keeps mentioning how it used to be a major hub, a real center of trade. it’s definitely got that old-world feel, especially in the bazaar. seriously, this bazaar is insane. it's the largest covered bazaar worldwide. you could get lost in there for days. i spent a couple of hours wandering through, getting completely disoriented but also finding the most amazing things - carpets, spices, ceramics…everything. someone told me that the quality of the Tabriz carpets is unparalleled - like, the finest Persian knotting unparalleled. i’m seriously considering buying one, even though i have no idea how i’d transport it.
and the history! it's all over the place. they've had earthquakes, apparently big ones. total destruction in 858 AD, over 40,000 deaths in 1041 AD. the city keeps rebuilding, though. it's a testament to the resilience of the people. it reminds me of places like... well, never mind. it's just…lots of rebuilding.
food-wise? oh my god. forget everything else, just eat the kofteh tabrizi. seriously, just trust me on this one. they’re these huge stuffed meatballs, and they’re amazing. i also tried ash-e doogh - a yogurt soup. it sounds weird, but it's actually really refreshing. and the sweets! loqma and rikak… i need to find a recipe for those. and the local flatbread… perfect for soaking up all the delicious sauces. they seem to eat a lot of grilled meats too - hearty meals, suited to the climate, as they say.
it's also interesting to hear about the people. mostly Azerbaijani Turks, speaking a language similar to Turkish. they're known for being hospitable, which i've definitely experienced. and industrious. it feels like a place where people are really hustling, you know? and it is a hub for a lot of things - administration, industry, communication… a real regional center.
if you get bored, ardabil and zanjan are just a short drive away. it’s 622 km northwest of tehran too. i’m not sure i have the energy for another long road trip right now, though. i’m mainly seeing the sights within tabriz. there’s also this cool thing about summer - the days are super long. like, up to 14:38 hours of daylight. then, the winters are ridiculously short - only 9:21 hours. it's a bit disorienting.
what’s to be aware of? earthquakes, obviously. the weather extremes. and… well, geopolitical tensions. it's a little unsettling, to be honest. but the city feels safe. mostly. tabriz really is something else. it’s messy, chaotic, and full of surprises. it’s not a perfectly polished tourist destination, but that’s what makes it so interesting. i’m definitely going to need a few days to fully absorb everything. time for more kofteh tabrizi, i think.
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