Back to Feed
Long Read

why rome is growing like a weed in an ancient ruin

@Leo Carter2/7/2026blog
why rome is growing like a weed in an ancient ruin

so i keep seeing these headlines screaming that rome is one of the fastest growing cities in europe, and as a history nerd who's probably read one too many books about the fall of the western roman empire, i've got some thoughts. the numbers don't lie: the metro area is now pushing 4.3 million people (istat, 2023), job growth is surging-especially in the eur district where tech startups and aperitivo bars are popping up like mushrooms after rain. rent's climbing, yeah; a one-bedroom in the center averages €1,200, but that's still cheaper than milan or london. and unemployment's finally dipping for young folks in creative and tech gigs. oh, and i've been scoping out some *pizzerias in testaccio that now double as co-working spaces. it's weird but cool.

Colosseum arena photography

look at that arena; they built it to last, and rome's still rebuilding itself two millennia later.

The Empire Strikes Back (With Cranes)

rome isn't just resting on its laurels-there's construction cranes everywhere you look. the city's expanding outward, with new residential complexes springing up around the grandi (those ancient roads that still dictate traffic patterns like the via appia). the tram network is finally getting a proper upgrade after years of delays, and there's talk of extending metro line c to the farthest suburbs, which would cut commute times dramatically. it's like the ancient romans are looking down and saying, 'finally, some decent roads.' construction permits shot up 18% in 2022 (comune di roma), which means a lot of concrete, but also a lot of new homes and offices. i've watched entire palazzos get gutted and turned into luxury lofts-sometimes i wonder if the ghosts of senators are complaining about the noise. plus, the eur district, once a showcase for fascist architecture that felt dead after 5pm, is now buzzing with coworking spaces and cocktail bars. it's like they finally figured out how to mix business with pleasure.

Tourists, Tax Dollars, and Tensions

tourism is still the lifeblood, but it's a double-edged sword. last year, rome pulled in over 10 million visitors (visitrome data), pouring cash into the economy but also cranking up crowds to levels that feel like the colosseum on steroids. pickpocketing hotspots like the metro stations and the colosseo area are notorious-someone at a bar whispered to me, 'watch your wallet near the fontana di trevi, but the gelato at that little place around the corner? worth the risk.' safety-wise, violent crime is low, but petty theft is a real headache. the city's trying to cope with 'smart' initiatives, like app-based reporting and more cops in summer. some locals are fed up; i overheard a guy muttering about 'tourist tax' and how the scooter parking is a nightmare, with streets clogged like ancient roman traffic during a triumph. but let's be real: without tourists, rome would be a ghost town. it's a love-hate thing. the growth in short-term rentals via airbnb has also pushed up rents and made it harder for locals to find places. i've seen whole buildings in trastevere turned into tourist apartments, which is great if you're visiting, but if you're trying to live here? brutal.

to give you a sense of the sprawl, here's a map of the area:

the weather right now is that weird roman summer haze, like an old fresco left in the sun to dry. and the neighbors? naples is just a short train ride away-closer than your average commute-and you can practically smell the pizza dough on the breeze when the wind is right. tuscany's rolling hills are a two-hour drive if you need a breather from the city's chaos.

Food, Faith, and Finding an Apartment

the food scene is exploding beyond the classic carbonara and cacio e pepe. you've got michelin-starred joints next to trattorias that have been around since before italy was unified. the new wave includes fusion places, vegan options, and street food markets like the one at pigneto that draw crowds till midnight. but here's the mess: finding an apartment is a blood sport. i've friends who camped outside agencies for weeks. the average rent in trastevere? about €1,300 for a two-bedroom. but if you look further out-like in pigneto or san lorenzo-you might find something under €900. it's a trade-off: longer commute, but you get to live in a neighborhood that feels like a village, with fontanas on every corner and old men playing cards. and let's not forget the spiritual side: rome is still home to the vatican, so you'll see priests in basilicas next to hipsters on vespas. it's a chaotic mix that somehow works. i've also noticed a rise in digital nomads setting up shop in coworking spaces, which is cool for networking but drives up coffee prices near the pantheon.

aerial photography of city

i've been combing through local insights to get the real scoop. for instance, the subreddit r/Rome is full of heated debates about the new bike lanes (some say they're lifesavers, others call them a sci-fi nightmare). on tripadvisor, you can find the usual top attractions but also hidden gems like the quartiere coppedè that feels like a fairy tale. and yelp's best cheap eats? try da enzo al 29 for cacio e pepe that'll ruin you for all others. the official rome tourism board has stats on growth, but their "living costs" page is a bit rosy-reality is messier.

so yeah, rome is growing fast, but it's not without its growing pains. i love it, i hate it, i'm probably moving there next month because i'm a glutton for punishment and great gelato*.

You might also be interested in:

About the author: Leo Carter

Connecting dots that most people don't even see.

Loading discussion...