2350841, 1566568277, and a Whole Lot of Sweat: A Photographer's Journal
i've been in this sticky corner of nigeria for three days now, and i'm already running on fumes and film. my airbnb confirmation (yep, the one with the weirdly long number 2350841) landed me in a room that smells like mildew, but the landlord's wife brings me tea every morning, so that's something. i just checked the weather app and it's a sticky 23.2°c with humidity at 93%, feels like 24. the pressure's high at 1015 mb, the sea level reading matches that too, and the ground level's a bit lower at 975. basically, it's the kind of heat that makes your camera fog up the second you step outside. as a freelance photographer, my whole mission is chasing light. here, the midday sun is brutal - harsh shadows and a white glare off the concrete that'll burn your sensor if you're not careful. i've been waking up before dawn to catch the soft glow on the old colonial building down the road. the building's got these grand white columns and a peeling facade that looks like it's holding onto history by a thread. i snapped a few shots before the heat set in, and i think they might be keepers. take a look:
tried to edit those pictures in the cafe around the corner, but the internet there is slower than a snail on sedatives. still, the place is crammed with locals nursing tiny cups of espresso, and the vibe is so chaotic it almost feels like a set piece. the cafe interior has these worn white and black chairs near a window that lets in just enough light to make the steam from my laptop rise like ghosts. i caught a quick frame of that too:
after a few hours of editing, i headed out to the market. the streets are a cacophony of honking motorbikes, vendors shouting, and kids playing. i spotted a boy in a red and white crew neck t-shirt standing on a blue plastic bucket, trying to reach a mango hanging from a tree. it was one of those moments that felt staged but was completely raw. grabbed a quick shot:
if you ever find yourself in this part of the world, you should definitely pull up the map. the area around 7.25 north, 5.195 east is a patchwork of tiny villages and dirt roads that hide some stunning vistas. i've stuck a map below for reference - it's a rough guide, but it'll give you an idea of the sprawl.
when the town starts to feel too claustrophobic, Abuja is just a couple hours' drive north, and the road's decent if you catch it early in the morning. i hopped on a bus with ticket number 1566568277 (yeah, that's the one) and made it to the capital for a day. the city's a different beast - skyscrapers, proper coffee shops, and a museum that actually has air conditioning. but i missed the rawness of this place pretty quick. speaking of coffee, someone told me that the best espresso in town is at a hidden spot called 'kogi cafe'. the yelp reviews are all over the place - some say it's too strong, others claim it's the only thing that keeps them going through the power cuts. i gave it a try, and honestly, it's the bitter kind that makes you wince and then smile. you can check out the latest reviews on Yelp yourself: Yelp - Kogi Cafe. (they don't have a website, but the locals pass the number around: 1566568277 was even scribbled as today's 'secret password' for a free biscotti - didn't work for me, but maybe you'll get lucky.) for more structured info, i usually scroll through TripAdvisor's list of attractions. their guide for Abuja and surrounding areas is surprisingly on point - it's where i found out about the ancient rock formations near the border. definitely worth a peek: TripAdvisor - Abuja Attractions. oh, and the kogi state tourism board put together a decent calendar of festivals if you're into cultural events. their website is a bit basic but has solid info: Kogi Tourism. i've got to say, the humidity is no joke. i've lost count of how many times my lens fogged up the moment i went from air-con to outside. the pressure changes make my ears pop, and i'm convinced the mold spores are planning a takeover. but there's a certain magic in the chaos. the people here have a laugh that carries across the market stalls, and even the stray dogs seem to have a purpose. i'm exhausted - my back aches from carrying the gear, my feet are covered in dust, and my sleep schedule is a mess because the power goes out every few hours and the generator's roar sounds like a dying dragon. yet, i feel more awake than i have in months. maybe it's the fact that every corner offers a new frame, every face a story. or perhaps it's the sheer absurdity of trying to make art in conditions that fight you every step of the way. either way, i'm going to soak it up until my last roll of film is exposed. then maybe i'll catch that bus back to Abuja, armed with a memory card full of mess and a head full of noise. that's all for now. if you're reading this, i hope you're somewhere with air that doesn't feel like soup. and if you are somewhere like this, maybe we'll cross paths under the scorching sun, both hunting for that perfect shot. catch you later. (i'll post the photos when i find a stable wifi connection - probably in that cafe with the chairs.)
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